|New message board
|This is the last
message appearing here. Starting now, please see the new,
outside, professional message board.
New Message Board
The messages from Jan through May 2009
(WITH THE HIGHLIGHTED
BACKGROUND) have been copied over to the new board, and
the old ones have been left on this page for future reference.
WHY? For those who care, we used to have
a message board, run by an outside service, and it worked fine.
It, like the new one had a monthly fee, and meant that
theAnnexmaster did not have to enter messages by hand. Each
viewer could enter his own and it would appear right away.
Then they lost our records. Their backups were inadequate and we
lost over a years worth of data.
They gave us no price break for that, so I
closed the board. Now, we are trying again.
CHOICES - This new company seems to have
two options, either NO REGISTRATION, or you HAVE to register to
use the board. Ideally a mixture would be what we need -
sort of an either/or. Right now, no user name, no password
needed, but that may change if I find out that we lose too many
features by having the board totally public.
|What steering box?
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what steering is
used in the 1977 phaeton 302 engine c4 trans what box ? what
steering pump ? NJ 609 709 0977
I think that the answer is going to be
different depending on whether you have front leaf springs or
the newer coil springs. The style changed somewhere around your
VIN # of 1100.
My 1977 #1100 has front leaf springs
. what type steering box might it have ?
Joel, the builder of
the cars - provided the following in 2009: Just knowing to
start with FORD products is helpful, especially after recently
learning that they had used trailer springs in the
backs of some Glassics (around 1973-74 - maybe others)
have a "tag" on the top of the box that identifies the part
number... That is the best info I can come up with...
Otherwise just take it to a Ford dealership and identify it as
best you can visually.... the tag is the only best way I know
|Rear end ratio on a 1966?
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Rear End Axle
Ration & getting more power out of the 152 4 cylinder.--
Does anyone know the rear axle ratio of the original Glassic. I
have a 1966 Glassic with the 4 cylinder 152 engine and want to
know the rear axle ratio. Also, has anyone had this engine
rebuilt to increase it's power or done something else to
increase the power or improve it's performance? Mine
seems way under powered . If you have made changes, what have
you done and was it successful? -- Thanks, Stan -- Home
Phone: 619-461-5118 (California)
small clue might be that, while many problems come up time and
again, the Annexmaster has not seen this one before - suggesting
that rather than being a general problem, it might be
more of a repair, or tune-up issue.
|What rear springs on a 1974?
Rich, Car 1148
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Does anyone know
what springs were used in a 1974 roadster (REAR). I need to
replace the spring eye bushings and every attempt at ordering
Ford replacement parts has come up with the wrong ones. Any help
would be greatly appreciated. Contact_WorkPhone: 408-842-1234
I have tried Bronco, Pinto, Maverick, LTD, Mustang, Econoline,
F150, I am trying to find a picture to see if international
might look right.. Any help would be appreciated
answer has been added to the
And some parts that Rich DID find that worked:
I have recently rebuilt the rear end and drive line
the Ford parts are what worked. I ordered from Kragens
(A car parts store) Rear
seals and bearings and all the brake hardware and wheel
cylinders matched 1974 Ford Maverick. However the driveline
rebuild I am working on, Ford Maverick u joints do not fit. I
will let you know what does. We have also completely replaced
all of the front end with coil-overs and I will send pictures as
to the looks soon. Still trying to find the rear leaf spring
bushings.. I can tell you what does not fit, Bronco, Maverick,
|temp gauge wanted
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I am in need of a
temperature gauge for my 1978 Replicar. Does anyone have one for
sale? Mark 360-921-1314
|What wheels to use?
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I'm looking for new
wheels to put on my recent purchase of a Glassic.....the
original spoke wheel covers are rusted and I would like to
either find new wheel covers or some rims that would compliment
the original look of the car...What's best for me to do????
Acushnet, MA --WorkPhone: 774-955-9560
First, I hope you will
REGISTER your car
on the website if you have not already
done so. Adding "known" Glassics to our list is my reward for
keeping the site current. Now, a couple of general comments on
at least 3 different bolt patterns on Glassics, depending on
what year car you have. A good idea regarding wheel purchases is
to take the car to buy the wheels, and try the wheels on the car
to be sure the bolt pattern is correct, as well as the
backspacing, AND the clearance - especially the front wheels
that should be turned all the way side to side to be sure they
don't hit anything.
Finally, a great thing about
Glassics is that there is no value in keeping anything
"original" - meaning you are free to do what you LIKE. Look at
the photo album and pick a look that you like (and fits your
budget). Whether it is wire wheels and wide whitewalls, or baby
moon hubcaps and trim rings, or the hot rod look of mag wheels
-- it is up to you to select. -- A dealer in odd cars told me
once that he did not like that my fender mount spares did not
match the other 4 wheels - he had a good point - but finding 6
matching rims is harder than 4. Good luck and send pictures when
|Photos of Model A's
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AUTO PARTS (800) 255-1929,
WWW.BRATTONS.COM in their catalog of model a parts is
a couple of nice 12x18 black and white factory photos of
Phaetons. Roadsters also, They sell for 4 bucks each. About 40
model A pictures in all are for sale. Spring is finally here!
The Annexmaster has used Brattons and
likes them as a company. They seem to be nice, helpful folks.
Clue: on the left side of their web page select the category
FACTORY photos. Photos of 4 door
Phaetons are available, as well as the TWO door that inspired
|Bigger hinge pins?
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I have one
question, and one possible answer
(the item below).
First, my door hinges (#913) have a lot of play in them, and it
seems the hinge pins are a bit undersized for the hinge holes.
Does anyone have a line on someplace that may sell slightly
larger hinge pins?
|Running board fixes
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removed the white rubber strips on the running boards and
repainted. It looks great, but will eventually get scratched up.
I have been looking for running board material with little luck.
The best I can come up with is rubber hall runner, cut to size.
BUT...I recently used some bed liner paint on another vehicle,
and I think I will try to use it as running board covers. Pep
Boys had two types. . One is rubber based, and I don't like it.
The other is more like Line-X, it dries hard, and is made by duplicolor, and comes in spray cans. They also have a roller
applied I am going to try this on my running boards and will get
back to you with the results.
Rick Potter -- PLEASE - share
those results. How the edges will turn out may be important.
And, if you are not putting back the white strips, don't throw
them out. Those, and the little tips are hard items to find for
people who need replacements.
|Wanted luggage rack
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I am looking for a
luggage rack for my Glassic Roadster # 419. It has the
rods with the post for the rail but not the rack itself. also
looking to replace all of the chrome items on the car. If anyone
has any of these, I would rather buy from an owner than from 20
different vendors. Thanks Roger, Texas, 214-801-3696
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I just bought this
(Car 419). Found it under
Annex. Would like to talk to someone who has one like it. Need
some basics about engine and accessories. Intent is to restore
it completely as is.
|Adding power windows
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Does anyone have
any info for putting a set of power windows in my 73 roadster
This is the only car that the Annexmaster
knows of that has power windows. I think they were done by the
owner prior to Bobbie in California The pics may help.
|What gas tank fits and for sale
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I need a fuel tank
for a 76 Phaeton, does anyone know one that will work? also does
anybody have any interest in buying the car, new brakes, fuel
pump, carb, good top. It still needs tires and other but runs.
Ken is in Orlando, FL--
|Seat replacements & dash pattern
seat swap success stories.
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I've got a Glassic
roadster #659. It has a bench seat with about 1/16' of padding.
I really don't like the bench seat idea, too easy to slide
around on. I would like to convert to bucket style seats, but
don't know what might fit in the roadster.
I need suggestions, recommendations, or experience related
words of wisdom. Roadster season is coming to Maine soon and I
want to be ready!!!
On another note, does anyone have a drawing of the
dashboard? I'm going to make one from walnut and need some
dimensions to start with. Just the dash board, side to side.
I've already got the instrument cluster finished, but need some
details. Please help on either of these topics. Many thanks in
advance. Tony Dixon (work: 207-833-5934)
Some seat ideas are posted
which is a link from the "Body" part of the Annex
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Are the master
cylinders and clutch cylinder available?
International Scout parts should be
available - perhaps through a NAPA store. Having the part
in-hand, or a good close-up picture of it makes their job
easier. On line Scout parts websites might be good also. See the
Annex links page at
|Wanted: a Glassic
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Napa CA -- Looking
for a Glassic , any model, in great shape, Call 707-224-0342 or
|What's it worth?
|hi Glassic folks!
I'm posting this because a friend of mine recently passed away
and he left behind a '69 Glassic. Before he died, he said it
only needed a battery and fresh fuel. Id give the car a 6 out of
a possible 10. Given this info, what's it worth? Location is Ft
Lauderdale, FL thanks!
My sympathies on the loss of your
friend. Using the info on the
PAGE, $6,000 is a good starting point
for a car that probably has been neglected a bit recently.
Naturally, every car is different, so it's hard to tell. I
noticed that car # 303 is in Ft. Lauderdale - see the
owners list. At
such time as the car becomes "for sale"
it can be registered on the owners
list and advertised there free.
|Buy and sell
|Buy and sell stuff
is MOSTLY on the Annex home page, yellow square number
the lower right which is the ADS window. See recent wanted and
for sale parts. CARS for sale are found on the
owners list. While not up to date,
when I hear that a car is for sale, I highlight that car's entry
|Jacks for Glassics &
Bob & Mark
|A few questions as
new owners of a Glassic: What do you do for a jack? Is there an
easy way to hook up jumper cables instead of finding a skinny
person to crawl under the car?
Jack: I got a small import car bottle
jack for my car, which I kept in the trunk. When you get it, you
should test it to be sure it fits under the car and lifts the
PLEASE CLICK TO
SUBMIT OTHER SOLUTIONS TO THE ANNEXMASTER
The earlier cars had the battery under the hood - Later on, they
were under the back seat (power steering, brakes and A/C used up
all the room under the hood) - a royal pain to service since the
only access was from under the car. One person reported building
extensions to his cables that terminated in the panel at the
side of the rear seat. Jumper cables could be hooked up to them.
They also might terminate under the back seat base.
I had considered, but never
implemented, the notion of cutting a hole in the back seat floor
and adding a boat or camper type access panel under the carpet.
I never checked to be sure that it would be big enough or in the
right place to fully access the battery.
When my car (a 1978) died several
years back, AAA (another solution) hooked up to the solenoid and
the engine block.
A third idea is keep a good battery
in the car -- if the car has a 60 month warranty, replace it at
55 months or 48 months, since they seem to go bad at one month
after the warranty expires.--
Someone also reported moving their
battery into their trunk, but I don't know if even longer cables
are the best idea.
CLICK TO SUBMIT OTHER SOLUTIONS TO THE ANNEXMASTER
|Ask and ye shall receive (sometimes)
|Wow, talk about
serendipity, or Kismet, or deja vu all over again. I just went
to the site to try to sell my pair of wheel covers from my '73,
and there was a request for a pair from Joe.
PS: The new trans is finally in the car, and I will someday
get the time to do the grill shell and get it back on the road.
Life keeps slowing down my plans.-- Like they say...If you
want to hear God laugh, just tell him YOUR plans.
(see the item below dated 10/19/08)
|What radiator fits?
|I have to
replace the radiator on my '73 roadster #715. I would like
to just swap out with a new one of the same make/model. What
make is the original stock radiator? Is it a Ford part also? Any
info/details on the radiator would be great. thanks, Joe
anyone has the definite answer, please share it with the
website! I had a terrible time with my 1978 (and similar) since
NONE of the Ford radiators seemed as tall as the Glassic.
Checking eBay and radiator shops never did find a direct match.
More than once, radiator shops have wanted to re-core and
rebuild them - and that's what I had done. It was cheaper than a
new radiator and seems to work, other than not being very
-- That mis-match problem may not
apply to the 1973 or so cars, so a FORD product could well
match. In the case of the 1978, several were the right width and
mounting brackets but were not quite as tall as the Glassic.
Since the shorter ones used to cool a Ford engine in their
original cars, seems like they should work for us (perhaps with
a flat plate to be sure the most air was forced through the
radiator, instead of up and over top of it. See also the
Reply from Gary 11/10/08
(This answer was also added to the tech
section on radiators)
Radiator problems, I tried
having mine cleaned and it('73 Glassic) still ran hot. I
replaced mine with a new one and alls well now. The Modine part
number is 2301 and the ford part number is C4DE8005C.these fit
60 to 65 Falcon with the 289 CI and A/T and A/C and is the
optional 3 row one. This radiator was direct replacement in my
car and yes there is a block off plate on the top off the
radiator. I hope this helps someone solve their overheating
problems as it did mine.
|Wheel covers wanted
WANTED to BUY - 2 orig. Hub Caps for a
1973 Roadster. Please email me if you would like to sell. I am located in
Woodstock, GA. Thanks, Joe
(CANCEL this request. Joe decided to go
with after-market wheel covers.)
|front leaf springs
|I have roadster #
709. The rubber grommets for the front leaf springs need to be
replaced. Has anyone ever done this? What is the part #? Did the
Econoline have leaf springs as original equipment? Home Phone:
|clean windows without scratching
|I read on the
message board some questions about cleaning the top and windows
without scratching. I have a new top and interior on my roadster
#885 and was advised by my upholsterer to use lemon pledge
to my amazement it works great.
|Looking for a
Glassic roadster, Shay, or Camelot, in any condition. Project
car, not running, needs work, okay with me. Needs to be less
than $10,000. I am in Michigan, but can pick up anywhere in the
US. Please email firstname.lastname@example.org
|Turn signal switch wanted
|I have a 1974
Glassic Phaeton and am looking for a signal switch. Can you help
me find one? -- Louisiana
I would try
removing the old part and taking it to a place like NAPA car
parts and asking for help, selecting from Ford products of that
year or earlier -Pinto, Maverick, Econoline are likely
candidates, then other smaller Ford products.
|Cranks hard when warm
|Car #1480 --
Love the vehicle!! Getting a lot of attention here in
the north east - most people haven't seen a car like this. It's
a trophy winner because it stands out in a crowd on Cruise nites.
Runs well with the ride feel of my original 1930 Model A
convertible. My only problem to date is that the car cranks
like it had a low battery after the car has been running for 15
or 20 minutes. Local mechanics are baffled. Possible problem-a
--See the possibly related
question from Cy - two items down. -- could this be a
problem with all that pollution stuff on the cars by 1980?
|Attending Oct Cruise
|Cruisin the Coast
(huge multi-day cruise-in in Biloxi
Mississippi) is the week of Oct 5 - 12th. I'll be
there this year if anyone wants to try and meet. Beet pretty
neat to see some other Glassics... Dennis Crozier
|Battery drains down
#1480 Roadster with a 302 V8 last year. It's a fun car, I'm
really enjoying it --getting many favorable comments and lots of
lookers at the car on the road & at the cruise nites BUT -- A
PROBLEM -- The battery loses it's charge after a half hour of
running. Local mechanics are stumped. Has anyone had this
problem & solved it? All suggestions will be much appreciated.
ALSO Can the battery be moved from the rumble seat to under
Thanks in advance. Cy .
As a non-mechanic, the Annexmaster
urges mechanics to remember that Glassics are fiberglass bodied
cars and grounding is often at fault for problems that don't
seem to make sense.
|Wanted to buy CAR
|Hi I want to join
this site. how do I join? I am pleased
to say there is nothing to join to use the Annex. if you want,
you can opt-in to be on the mailing list (Main webpage, yellow
- However, since I send so few mailings, the best way to keep up
is to check the log (Main webpage, yellow square
2 ) to see what is
Wanted To Buy: I am looking for a Glassic,
Shay or Camelot Have cash. will look at any and all, stock or
modified. I am on the Oregon/ California border. email me or
|Converting to Disc brakes
|I own Car # 835
(a 1973 Roadster) and am
converting to front disc brakes and ordered king pin set for
Econoline E 100 as stated in Annex being axle used but pins are
too small a diameter, also ordered conversion kit for same but
back plate does not fit.
Can anyone help? The hub has KH79808
stamped on it .Old drum has FOMOCO, max dia.10.09, 86559,A53 4
KH stamped on it. Can anyone please help to identify what I have
and approx year? Cheers Jim Wilshire (England)
When I wrote to Jim to tell him I had posted
his question, he answered:
Thanks ,I have since received information that it may be
based on 68 to 71 Econoline and not 59 to 67 which is a
narrower king pin and unfortunately I was initially advised
this was the one and had it delivered from the States, I
will keep you in touch with my findings on the king pin --
mine is approx 6 inch long 7/8 diameter with a holding pin
hole 65mm from top . Once sorted I will send pictures of
stripped suspension and conversion to disc brake along with
all parts used and their sources for other members .
|Trade his Roadster for a Phaeton
|Scroll down to Dec
20th of 2007 on the Message Board OR CLICK
HERE and see Fred's Roadster in Florida. He has been
making a lot of improvements on the car and still wants to
trade his Roadster for a Phaeton.
|I have car number
129 which has already undergone a repaint, but really needs a
new paint job again. The body sags causing the doors not to
align properly. I can push the side walls and the doors
align. Has anyone had this same issue and found an easy fix?
Thanks for any help!!
This is NOT one that I have heard
before - hopefully that means that it is not a design issue,
but a problem with this particular car. In my newer car, there are spacers
(like large fiberglass washers) between the body and frame.
Perhaps yours are missing or deteriorated? Please send other
ideas to Kevin directly or to me to post
|What are parts worth?
Hi Folks, I have car 913, which has undergone some surgery to
the wheel well areas, rear fenders, and foot room. I have not
forgotten. I will post some pictures as soon as I can get
someone over here to do it for me. It may be a while though. We
are doing a complete makeover of our house, and just got taken
for an expensive ride by the contractor....so...I am the new
contractor. One other thing I am going to try out is replacing
the grill shell with a real, stainless, 1931 Model A unit I have
had for years. It looks pretty close when I line the two up side
by side, but the top of the Glassic shell is a bit different. I
suspect it would not work if I was using the hood sides, but I
have removed them and just use the top, so I think I may be able
to flex the front of the hood enough to fit. I will take
pictures of the process, and write it up, good or bad. Please be
patient. I need some help please: As stated above, I have
removed parts which I no longer need, and I am hoping to get an
idea of what some of these parts are worth. I have an
offer already, but I think it is a bit low.
I have given away the rubber strips from the running boards
already, but I would like to sell the following:
Both sides spare tire covers in very good condition...see pic
Both sides spare tire mounting struts and brackets.
Two very good original wheel covers.
An original complete rear rack in great condition.
Can someone give me an idea of what these items are worth?
|Running Board strips
Louis, the owner of car 416, added his
info to the owners list and asks:
Car is still undergoing a re-paint, new top, and wheels. I
need to replace the
white rubber inserts on the running board and rear deck.
Can anybody help me find them. A picture of car will follow
when car is completed.
Did the 1972 built 31 roadster have a fiber glass
fuel tank? If so does anyone have any suggestion
on how to repair the filler pipe or replace it.
I thought that the
72 would have a Bronco gas tank. Replacement
tanks, I believe, also come in some kind of
plastic. Filler neck modifications that I know of
have been created from scraps and no standard
solution has appeared here. Anyone have any
Message to Travis
Car # 640. I have a '72 Model # 600 It has a
steel tank in it.
This info provide by Fred Irvin -- email@example.com
|luggage rack source?
car number 141 or so and need a luggage rack for
it. any help or clear pictures of one would be
great. maybe I can build one?
There SHOULD be
pics in the album - you just have to search the
thumbnails for a rear view. I thought that these
were Model A reproductions, available from Model
A catalogs. See links page.
anyone have information on where I can get new
dowels (pins) for attaching the roof to the
windshield? Yeah, I was that stupid. (to
have lost them)
If a replacement
can't be found, you can tap the holes and put in
thumb screws as an alternative. Has anyone found
Aug, 2008 Michael responded:
I found replacement pins at West Marine (Lincoln Park if
you near Chicago). I imagine other boating supply stores would
also carry them and would be a good place to search.
Great solution! Thanks.
Boat supply stores are great places to browse for Glassic
owners. They have lots of interesting items for us, such as lots
of stainless steel hardware and "things" including nuts and
bolts (at prices, I feel, cheaper than depot stores.) Also other
weather - proof item that might work. For example, you can find
access panel doors with frames. I had thought about using one on
the floor of my Phaeton to get to the battery from the back
|Raising the top
took the boot off the top frame of our 'new'
Replicar, thinking about getting the top out of
the trunk to see what kind of shape it's in.
Several questions please:
1.) I lifted gently
on the top frame and it didn't seem to want to
come up more than a foot or so. Also can see that
it digs into the fiberglass where the longest bow
fastens/hinges to the car. I now can see why
there are old scratches there. Question is, how
do I do this right? Looks like a two person job?
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
As I recalled,
before I built a hardtop, it was not an easy job.
Two people, slowly and carefully (after adding
drops of oil or WD-40 to pivot points) working
the scissor arrangement by lifiting the front
straight up, skyward, then, as it unfolds,
rocking it forward toward the windshield. The
scratching is a common problem, only avoided by
slow and deliberate
top raising and lowering. NOTHING like a modern
car - The builder reported great difficulty
getting the mechanism to work at all and look ok
- let alone
2.) What do you all use for vinyl
I picked by
reading the labels on bottles in the auto parts
store. Most did not mention convertible tops, but
a couple did. Vinyl STAIN worked great for me on
old, dirty spare tire covers.
3.) What works best to clean the plastic
windows without scratching or discoloring them?
Anyone have any
thoughts on this, or any of the above questions?
Thanks for the suggestions. Dennis Taylor
(MAINIAC) Work: 207-645-3203
|door hinges on a 1973
door hinges are similar but larger than Model A.
Mine are sloppy and the chrome is pealing (1973
roadster). Does anyone have a good solution for
replacing entire hinge or a pin kit or bushings?
|Wiring help needed
|I am trying to rewire #
709.As you probably know,all the Glassic wires
are either black or red.The colors mentioned in
my painless instructions are not the colors that
are on my harness.
Does anyone know what wire goes to
what?A few months ago,a guy that lives south of
me said that he would come up & help me w/the
old wiring then never called or showed up.I
have no money to take it to wiring
specialist.Is there anyone that will help out a
fellow owner? I will pay for your gas to get here
& back home & I will make lunch for you
and provide all the mountain dew ,
fresca and coffee that you need.
|Rearend change in early Glassic
anyone changed the rear end in an early Glassic
Phaeton? If so what did you use?
Dennis has changed his
engine from an International to a Chevy V-8.
changed the differential in mine (Car 162) to a
Chevy S-10. The spring mounts lined up perfectly
and I only had to adapt the flex brake line and
emergency cable. The drive line is different with
mine because of the Ford V-6 / C-5 auto trans.
|Add windows to a Glassic?
wondering is it possible to add windows to an '81
Replicar, Phaeton? Any info would be greatly
Michael, in NY - 518-377-6119
Beyond the side curtains that
came with the cars originally, there are no great
ideas that I have heard of. On the website are my
own plastic windows (car 1254) and glass electric
windows installed in a Roadster, (car 917). What
info is available on these can be found by way of
the Technical page -- search for
"windows" Has anybody else done
anything with windows?
Followup -- Links to
pictures of both windows projects can now be
found on the ALBUM page for that car. The links
to those had gone away when the album crashed
several months ago.
|gas tank rubbing
|My gas tank (car #709) rubs
on the rear end. Is this a usual happening? How
can I fix it?
car owner #709. I don't see the tank straps that
hold the tank to the frame. Are they broken of
I own a Glassic car # 1242. Year built was 1978.
I believe it's called a 1930 Ford Phaeton. I went
to my first car show and talked to someone who
thought Phaeton's were all four doors. What I
have been able to look up on the net showed both
two door and four door. I would like to know if
there are different names for each model, such as
deluxe or roadster. Thank you, Jim
The Glassic founding
father, Joel, made this comment, which which I
copied from the History
of Glassics page.
Although never planned as a
"clone" copy, and despite various
descriptive terms that have appeared over the
years, the actual car on which the Glassic
/Replicar was based was a 1931 Model A Ford
2-door Deluxe Sports Phaeton. The later cars (Glassic Replicars)
shared some appearance features of a 32
Victoria in that the hoods were longer and
the doors wider than earlier models.
I believe that Ford
made a 1030-31 Standard Phaeton and Deluxe
Phaeton, both with 4 doors, as well as a 2 door
Deluxe Phaeton. I got this from the Body style
identification chart in a Model A parts catalog.
Ford also made both a Standard and Deluxe
Roadster. In general, Ford Phaeton suggests a
convertible with a front and back seat, and
Roadster suggests a convertible with only a front
seat and a trunk or rumble seat.
Gary (car 581)
read about people asking about getting this or
that part for their car. You can add this site to
links as they have been around from 1952. Their
web site is http://LittleDearborn.com
they have online catalogs and are real helpful.
Mostly gennie (genuine?)
parts but have a lot of the do-dads that people
internet technical point of view, I have seen
better vendor "websites" however
I highlighted the comment above since that
is an valuable vendor feature.
|1972 turn signal switch
anyone had to replace the turn signal switch.
Mine is a 1972 Phaeton, the steering wheel has a
Mustang logo on it but there don't seem to be any
identifying numbers that we can reference. Search
of several junk yards has resulted in several
similar but none that will fit. Mac.
-- Virginia Beach, Va --- Home Phone:
I assume that you have
tried the usual suspects: Bronco, Maverick,
Pinto. Econoline seems unlikely, but I envision
that the process was to shop around with Ford and
mix and match parts that fit the narrow Model A
shape, worked together and met whatever the
current legal requirements were. NAPA parts
people have usually been good at helping to find
parts by their appearance.
|Some useful websites
posting this as an FYI in case anyone is looking
for 1931 Hoods or side panels. My Phaeton I did
as a hot rod and as I look around at sites I
think could be useful to others I like to post.
Previously I posted SpeedwayMotors.com. This site
has nice hoods, plain side panels, louvered, and
dual scoop ones. They have triple open hood hinge
setups also. Another site geared to restoring
original cars, http://www.dickspadaro.com/index.html
I have found parts for my car at all these sites
that you may find some use for. -- Tom
|Wants help finding parts
like to find an outlet for parts. I have a
roadster ( a 1972, car #
640). Parts such as rear view mirrors,
fender steps, rumble seat entry handles, wiring
some info can be found in the
TECHNICAL CHART (scroll all the way down -
look for the green shaded items), fenders steps
and rumble seat handles MAY be Model A
reproduction parts, (see LINKS
for vendors), wiring
diagrams don't exist, but FORD wiring diagrams
from that year may help with the running gear
parts of the wiring.
the way to a cruise Thursday nite, my horn,
headlights, taillights, amp gauge,& oil
pressure gauge all quit. It was the general
consensus at the cruise that I had a fire waiting
to happen. So I took out the dash, cut all the
wires and will eventually have a new painless kit
installed While I am doing this I would like
to trade up to a column shifter instead of the
floor shifter that I have to wrap my leg
around to drive.
I would like to trade
steering columns with anyone who would like a
floor shifter column. Or I will buy outright if
anyone has one for sale.
What is the source of the
folding luggage racks for Glassics?
Will Model A reproduction racks fit? Any issues
|Car Shows inf Fla.
I wanted to post a car show the end of this month
for some people who may be around the Pensacola /
Panhandle area of Florida. It's in Gulf Breeze
and they give away a ton of stuff. Affiliated
with NSRA. I'll have my car there hope to see
some more Glassics... Dennis...(car 189 with a Chevy V-8
Couple more shows in the
Panhandle area I'll be at including Cruisin' the
Coast in Biloxi: Navarre Beach Car Show, Navarre
FL 18 Oct 08 Commando Cruise In, Ft Walton Beach
FL 25 Oct 08 Cruisin the Coast, Biloxi MS 5 - 12
the proud owner of a 1978 Replicar of a 1931
Model A Roadster vin # 1211. I would like
to take my existing battery which is located
behind the drivers seat beneath the floor. I
would like to relocate the battery in the engine
compartment at some location. Has anyone
attempted relocating the battery in this type of
car if so I would appreciate any input or
instructions. Sincerely, Dick Miller
As I understand it, the
battery was moved out of the engine compartment
when the A/C and wiper parts needed that space. I
will guess that if Joel could have found room
under the hood, he would have saved money by not
running wires all the way to the back of the
car. In other words, it likely won't be an
Four related thoughts
1) Someone told me of
a trick where they had added two leads to their
battery and run them up under the back seat, or
into the side of the back seat area. (rumble seat
area in your case) They somehow were protected,
but could be exposed when necessary, so that the
battery could have jumper cables attached.
2) When I needed a
battery jump, AAA once came to me and, when they
found out where the battery was, they jumped the
car by attaching to the + end at the solenoid,
under the hood.
3) I had considered,
for a while, the idea of getting a
"door" and placing it on the floorboard
of the rear passenger seat. (rumble seat floor?)
The door was to be from a boat supply store or
camper parts store -- an access panel door that
has hinges and a frame and is meant to rivet or
screw into a camper or boat cabinet. I do not
remember if the flat space on the floor was large
enough, or flat enough or in the right spot for
this to work.
4) My car (and a few
others) have had a BATTERY KEY CUTOFF SWITCH
installed. In my case, this switch is under the
car and a hole under the driver's seat provides a
place for the key to go. The lock was on my car
for security purposes, (low level security, since
all locks seem to use the same key) but I
use it to disconnect the battery. One piece of
wire bypasses the switch for the radio /
clock. The part is available at car parts
stores, eBay, and other places, and has a big red
plastic key that stays in place when the battery
is on, and is removed to shut it off.
What have others
anyone know if there are running board covers
that fit the Glassic, like Model A, or whatever?
If not, what have you used to for running board
covers, and where did you get them? Thanks, Rick
The Annex has
had no reports of anything fitting our cars. I
have an odd setup on car 1254 that may be of
interest. I originally thought that someone had
taken a rectangle of medium weight aluminum sheet
and bent it to fit, rounding off the corners.
Then they had made a sort of slipcover from
rolled and pleated car upholstery vinyl. It looks
When I checked
closely, they had put the slipcover over the
original plastic running boards - why, I am not
sure. If you make a template, and cut out
the aluminum, a car / boat upholstery shop could
likely make covers for them. My feeling is that
mine have about an inch or so folded over the 4
edges and sewn to make pockets.
How have others
replaced their running boards?
have a wiring problem. The front lights work fine
however Someone wired the rear lights with what
appears to be scrap wire & wire nuts (like
you find in house wiring).
When I 1st got the
car I had brake lights and one bright taillight
and one very dim one.
One night at a cruise the taillights quit
working & I drove home w/my foot on the brake
The directionals did not work at all. I have 6
wires that were not hooked to anything. I checked
them & found no power going to them, so I
figure they must be ground wires? Now I
have one directional on the rear & that's
all.. All fuses appear to be fine.
Any ideas?? Fred
Patience and logical
detective work should help solve this one. Clues
are: one dim light to start with (poor ground?)
and the wire nut solution (this had been a
problem before?). Problems with my car have
included, over time, a bad brake light switch, a
spot where one taillight bulb socket was hitting
the back of the outer housing (the neck actually)
and shorting out. Poor grounds or no grounds are
a special issue with fiberglass cars.
I would pick an end
and start following the line. Perhaps start with
the light that used to be dim, and check the
ground. I keep a length of wire with alligator
clips on each end AND have an old dome light that
I made into a test lamp, with long wires
As for the six wires
-- I don't think its safe to assume they are ALL
ground wires. Only one should have been needed.
My car, for example, has a wire for backup
lights, but no backup lights.
My own first step
would be to take apart that dim taillight and
look for shorts, or bad connections.
A 12 volt
tester - (looks like a small ice-pick with a
light inside and a test wire) might be a good,
low cost investment.
upgrades being made.
Folks, I am having some changes made to Phaeton #913.
backed into a gate and put a crack in the rear
fender. Since I was going to have it fixed
anyway, I decided to bob the rear fenders
about 3", remove the front fender wells,
and remove all the white rubber strips on the
running boards. I have been reading about a
couple people who have had trouble with foot
I am 6'1' and can hardly step on the brake
without crunching my left foot. With me it is the
width of the foot well, not the length. I
am having the left side of the foot well box cut
out and widened 2-3'. Right now my left
foot has to sit on the dimmer switch all the
There also has been mention of people
interested in moving the battery. Since
the pictures of my car were taken, I have removed
the hood sides, which made the battery look
really bad. I made a new battery holder out of
angle iron from an old bed, and bolted it
directly to the firewall, as high up as possible,
directly above where it originally sat.
I know that MANY of
us hope Rick will share some pictures of these
From Dennis, car 189
My dimmer is located just under the dash
all the way to the left. Makes it simple to
push with my hand and have the extra room on
the floor board. I also had my brake pedal
cut off the arm rotated 90 degrees and
re-welded to allow more foot on the pedal.
Worked out real nice. I'm '6 '2 and the only
issue I have is my head is a little above my
replied to my question by saying that the
switch appeared to have been under the dash
|Searching for outside mirrors
need to obtain 2 outside mirrors (rear-view) I
have looked on many sites but I can't find the
mirrors with the 2 holes to mount to the side of
the car. Any ideas?
info can be found on the Annex comprehensive A-Z
topic index (main page menu item # 1)
From Dennis, car 189
I found these on e-bay and
is most likely what I will go with. I like
the look and they stick up high enough where
you can actually 'see' out of them. I found
them at Yearwood
"mirrors" page for Yearwood showed
up blank, you may have to call them )
for $39.00 so that may save a little more but
here is the link and what they look like... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHROME-HOT-ROD-SWAN-NECK-MIRRORS-4-EXTERIOR-MIRRORS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33649QQihZ019QQitemZ290212684667QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Since the eBay
listing will likely disappear at some point,
here is the picture from the listing.
It was $58 + $10 postage by a vendor named
GOODFELLAS ROD AND CUSTOM
is a link to his eBay store as of 3/2008
|Drum to disc brakes?
if any one has changed the front brakes to disc?
The drums are terrible!!! If anyone has some
advice I would appreciate it.
I have not heard
particular complaints about the brakes before.
Does that mean that they just need some type of
repair, or are others unhappy with the drum
brakes as well?
Update: While updating the new
"technical section" on the website, I
came across this link http://www.glassicannex.org/cartales.htm#12-33 where he added a power
booster to his brakes. That may help.
|VW taillights to Model A style
have a 1978 Replicar Phaeton with the Volkswagen
tail lights. I would like to rebuild the fenders
and replace these lights with more
realistic/authentic looking tail lights. Does
anyone have any parts sources and/or suggestions.
I see 1973 Glassics with taillights similar to
what I want. Are those available anywhere as
Taillight from car # 771
number of people have changed their VW taillights
to reproduction Model A lights.
lights produce much poorer rear lighting that the
VW lights, but sure look better. I do know that
there is a rather large hole that needs to be
fiberglassed in when the VW lights are removed, (see
THIS - scroll down for pics) and care must be taken to not
mount the Model A taillight brackets too high or
too low on the fender.
Model A parts catalogs that have on-line versions
can be found on the LINKS page.
Joel, the builder, said:
.... Up until July of
72 we were using GROTE tail lights, taking
them apart and having the shell
chromed....After we sold out
(When Glassic was under different ownership
for a while) I
don't know what they could have been
|As a followup, I
asked Joel "Wouldn't it have
been easier to use Model A
reproduction lights back at that
time? He replied:
We couldn't use reproduction Model A
lights... Didn't meet federal DOT
specs, so we did the next bet
but stay "legal"....
The Annexmaster had never heard
of GROTE, but did a Google and look what I found:
This page has a 4 inch un-chromed version that
maybe a match.
4" Steel, Two-Stud Mount,
Regarding looking for tail lights
try Speedwaymotors web site they carry all sorts
of stuff. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/m/433_Street-Rod-Taillights-Model-A-T-40-Ford-50-Pontiac.html?page=1
|Seeking front turn signals
|Regarding her car
# 341, a 1970 -- pictures can be
found in the ALBUM in the 300's VIN and 400's
Is there a source for the
teardrop shaped front
blinkers? I don't know if the later cars had
there isn't a source, maybe someone would be
to have a mold made from theirs so copies can be
(I would be willing to do it, but mine are long
use the MESSAGE
BOARD FORM to reply
Bill - who removed his said : Mine were cracked (and
thrown away) made
by: Yankee NY
Dennis, who had also removed his, suggested
that truck running lights make a good, more
modern substitute, and look better also. Here is
an eBay link to some that he bought - other truck
running lights might also work well.
(at some point that link will become out of date)
- You can search eBay for any combination of
Amber Cab Roof Truck Semi Clearance Marker
Stacey responds to the idea of newer truck
I have been looking at
truck lights, but I
did like the ones that were on the car. the
seem too large, and the orange ones don't
to me either. I have time, hopefully
On 2/27/08 Dennis sent
this picture - his original lights (on the
RIGHT) and what he was going to
replace them with (left) until he found a
Below are the lights that
Dennis ended up with.
And the picture below is the
clear type that Stacey is looking for. (This
example is from car #320)
|Parts for Sale
|I am restoring and making
changes to car 1148, Will be bench style
seat.. Will re-do top.. Changed front suspension
to coil over and new round tube axle with disc
brakes and cross steer rack and pinion setup.
I have a lot of old
parts for sale and many more to come.. I am also
planning a Ford AOD transmission setup and
changing the rear diff also.. If you need parts
or have any input to help me that would be
greatly appreciated thanks...
I thought I had done
a better job of recording this info. Look at the
bottom of the page on car 1106 regarding the AOD
trans. swap. I MUST follow up and get this into
the index and get better info.
up: I am not exactly sure what the problem
was for him but here is a guess.. you can not use
the flex plate from the original 302 on the 351w
engine.. Catastrophic failure will result as it
has to be a certain weight to balance the motor
properly. In the case of mine it is a 302 stroked
to 331 and a 28oz flex plate comes with the motor
for use with the AOD trans.. If anyone else has
any ideas please let me know. I am still trying
to figure out the best way to re-do the a-brake
system.. Also thinking out the best way to do the
trans shifter.. I may try a electronic push
button shifting system.. Any thing else anyone
has tried and failed or made work please I really
look forward to any input.. Thanks Rich
|Roadster for sale
Texas Roadster is for sale. The info is on the
owners list, and in CAR
TALES, but since the photo album is
temporarily out of service (see the LOG for why) here is a pic of
the car. When the album is restored, you can see
click the picture for a larger view. Use your
browser back arrow to return to this page.
|Battery mounting under car
|Any idea how to mount the
battery in my roadster under the passengers side
floorboard?The last owner put it in the rumble
seat.Fred Bonnett #709
number of hot rod places have battery boxes that
can be welded on under the car. The newer
Replicars (76 onward) have them on the inside of
the passenger side rail, in the rear. This, of
course makes for a royal pain to service the
battery. You mentioned on the phone that the
battery had been moved due to no space under the
hood since the car had no riser on the carb for
the air cleaner. I may still have mine and can
check after the first of the year. If you can get
the battery back under the hood, that might be
the best way to go.
|Trade your Phaeton for his
|I have car # 709.A
yellow roadster. w/302 automatic shift. I am
6'4" tall, over 300 pounds and just do
not have enough room. If anyone has a phaeton in
similar condition & would like to trade for a
roadster, I'd like to hear from you. I hate to
chop this car up just to suit my size.
click the picture for a larger view. Use your
browser back arrow to return to this page.
Fred eventually sold this car in
|International engines / trans
now have 2 complete 4 cylinder setups. 1 motor is
International with 2900 original miles, 3 speed
with drive shaft. (out
of my car) Second is either a 152 or 192
international with 14,500
original miles, 3 speed with a drive shaft. I
don't need a lot for them and would be
willing to deliver within a couple hundred miles
|Bumper for sale
|Bill (car 1314)
in Wisconsin mentioned that he had a pair of
bumpers for sale. They may have been from a Shay,
but would work for a Glassic. No price was
mentioned. Email him if interested.
|Car 1314 For sale
|Bill (car 1314)
Wisconsin, Is selling his 79 yellow Phaeton. He
said that the front seats have been re-done. Some
info, including contact info is on the owners
page. Asking $13,000. about 20,000 miles.
|Hood, seats for sale
|Maury (car 572)
selling my 72 Phaeton hood, side panels, and
Hood and side panels are red, seats are white.
All are in excellent condition. I am in La
Mesa, California 91941, lets talk.
|Split hood wanted
|I ran into the owner of car
#1288 last sat. at Englishtown car meet in new
jersey. he was selling his car and I had occasion
to look at it. nice car. it is a 1978 phaeton I
noticed that it had a split hood, He said as far
as he knew that year came with the split hood has
anyone any info or input on that?
I was going to attempt to
split the hood on car 885 this winter but if I
could locate one that someone isn't using
it would save me a lot of trouble and time. I saw
the procedure that some one had done on theirs,
not too bad but still a lot of work any
info available I would
the Replicars had split hoods (except for the
earliest 1976's) and the Glassics did not. There
were a lot of changes with Replicars, so it is
not a sure thing that a Replicars hood would fit,
even if you COULD find one. Here are my
measurements of my 1978 split hood. If a Glassic
owner would send me the measurements of THEIR
hood, we will all know if they can be swapped.
are approx. Front 13 1/8" for each half or 26 1/4" plus a little
for the hinge. Rear - (windshield end) 21 3/8" each side or 42
3/4" total plus a little for the hinge.
Front to back in the
center 34 3/8 inches
Front to back at the side, where the latches are 35 1/2"
car 1279, is in the process of fixing his split
hood so that the sides are hinged also and the
latches will be at the bottom, on the fenders
like a real Model A. Photos will be posted when
he is finished.
|It is now January, 2012 and I will measure
my hood from car 678, a 1973 Glassic Phaeton so you
can compare sizes to the Replicar I reported on before.
This is a one piece hood. 1) up and around the front
of the car, radiator end, side to side, bending the tape so
it lays flat on the curved hood: 29 1/2" 2) same
side to side measurement at the cowl or windshield end: 45
3/4" 3) Front to back length in the
middle: 31 1/2" and 4) front to back at the
drivers 32" or passenger32 1/4" lowest end:
|Glassic Christmas Cards?
|Ron & Diana
|Hi !! Just
wanted to share a "treasure" I found
while ordering my Christmas cards for this year.
I have attached the page from the Miles Kimball
Card site. Web address: www.mileskimballcards.com . I was rummaging
through their catalogue and I nearly died
when I saw this card!! Our red Phaeton is
featured on a Christmas Card. ! I was sooo
excited! AND to make it even BETTER, they are on
sale!! AND to top that, you can get FREE
imprinting on cards AND Envelopes if you order
before October 7, 2007. Just HAD to share this
with you. Thought You might even want
to put it on the website in case others
might want to order cards too. I'm still excited
over the find. Still HOPING to get you
some PICTURES of our cars to put on the website .
Just haven't had the extra time to do it yet.
Hope you enjoy my find!! The Millers, Ron and
Diana in Florida
How neat is THIS? Great
find, Ron & Diana. Ho ho ho!
card company's page with this card on it or you can search their
website for "christmas car antique"
|no name given
|I have Collector Car
Insurance thru Geico/Insurance Counselors
Inc./American Modern Home.
The short of it is, I
manage to get a "non-modified"
automobile policy which was $100.00 cheaper
on the year.
Now 6 mos. later
they want to change it to "modified"
and raise it. Is there a Collector Car
Insurance Company that doesn't look at the
Glassic as "modified"?
Louis is a former
Glassic owner and a friend of the website. Louis
is also an Allstate agent. I passed this question
on to him, and his reply appears below:
I write through Hagerty and they rated
both the Shay and Glassic's as modified which
as the person with the question said is more
expensive. I am told that
Grundy has the best rate of the collector car
companies. State Farm
has also gone through their book and re-rated
everything that was not "bone
stock" to modified according to a friend
of mine. I suggest he try Grundy and
report back to you his
This appears in
keeping with the Annexmaster's feeling that
insurance companies have a motto of: "Charge
as much as you can, and pay out as little as you
|Grill shell inserts
just received yesterday a billet grill insert I
am going to install on car 218. and just thought
I would send a couple of pics of it to you before
I install it. If anyone else is
interested in one of these I can arrange to have
more built through my company.
Well I installed my new billet grill insert
today and it went rather smoothly
NOTE: Contact Mike if you
are interested in one of these. My 1978 Replicar
has a different shape to the shell opening. Be
sure to verify your measurements before ordering
one. I asked Mike about the shipping weight and
cost for one of these - his answer:
for the weight it is not too bad being made of
billet aluminum it weighed around 10 pounds, as
for the cost it is around $350.00. Yes I
realize that the later model Glassics have a
slightly different size grill shell and I can
have it made any dimension that is given to me.
Mine measured 17" wide by 17.5" high
and I had the mounting tabs welded on 3"
from the top and bottom of the grill and it
mounted right up to the extension of the radiator
perfectly with tinnerman clips on the mounting
tabs. I did have to remove the engine sides to
remove the grill shell for installation but I
have done that before so it wasn't too bad.
If anyone is interested in one I would be more
than happy to help them out!
|Tie rods for a 1980 and door
|Hi folks,. I'm the
proud new owner of a Glassic Replicar Model A #
1480 roadster and am happy to join the club. My
mechanic found two problems that need to be
corrected. I need new tie rods and need to know
where to get replacements or let me know which
model frame is on the car.. -- As I
said in our phone call, the FRAME of the car was
special made for the Glassics. It is not
"from" another car, but build from
scratch for the Glassic. The question is really:
"What front end was used on the
Some info from Joel, the
builder appears HERE. Also, a
general article on FINDING PARTS
I also need to know
how to repair the driver side door that doesn't
fully close. If anyone can help, please let me
know. I'd be most appreciative. --
My own car has a little looseness when the doors
are closed, and in THAT case it is because the
weatherstripping was not replaced when the car
was painted. I never got around to replacing it,
but know that, in Florida anyhow, the stick-on
type tends to melt and get gooey. When I DO
replace it, I will get a universal door
weatherseal and some of that black glue from the
Cy elaborated on his door problem:
My door problem is the drivers side door
and the door doesn't fully close - it just
catches on the first latch and is loose and
rattles when driving.
I don't know if it
applies to your case, Cy, but I recall with my
dad's 1955 Chevy that the door latch would
sometimes get "out of whack" and the
door wouldn't latch. At the time I recall
"fiddling" with the latch (the star
shaped gear on the door) using pliers to crank in
forwards or backwards, until it finally clicked
and then was in the right position to latch
I also remember
that it took some doing to get it to work, and
when it finally did get into the right position,
I never quite knew HOW I had done it. So, try
turning that star knob a click forward (or maybe
backward) with pliers - with or without pushing
the door button on the outside at the same
time. Experiment around.
Also, and I don't know
if it has anything to do with the problem, but
pulling the inside handle in the opposite
direction for opening, causes the outside handle
to lock. Not much use for that with no windows.
CY, FROM NEW JERSEY
|Roadster for sale.
this car for resale. I have rewired the car from
front to back with ez-wiring harness. Replaced
the Mustang II front suspension with new parts,
new calipers and pads, master cylinder, new
radiator. The car was built between 1981 and 1982
by Richard Prescott of West Palm Beach, Florida.
He was a personal friend to Joel Faircloth who
was the owner of Replicar when it closed its door
for business. Asking $18,000. Click the camera
Denham Springs, LA 70706
Home Phone: 225-664-5103
|T-Bird Replica for sale
|I have a replica 1955
Thunderbird built by Replicars, Ltd. In West Palm
Beach in 1980 that I would like to sell. I
have customized it and have a porthole hardtop
for it. It has been appraised for $18,500
but I will sell for $15,500 if sold before
September 15th, 2007. Details and pictures
can be obtained at : firstname.lastname@example.org
|What headers fit a 72?
|Does anyone know what
headers will work on the 302 Glassic. Mine
is 72 and I notice theres not much clearance on
either side.I would like to go with ceramic so I
dont want to have to bend them.
tried long-tube headers on my 78, and
surprisingly, they cleared the frame and
steering, but hit the transmission housing on the
passenger side. The only thing I could figure is
that the original Mustang (which was an
automatic) may not have had the C-4 transmission.
Something to keep in mind. Buying new, with a
return policy, may be the way to go.
Also, my buddy (car 1279
and a long-time hot rodder) prefers NOT to use
headers because they are noisy and throw a lot of
heat under the hood (and into the passenger
|Running board rubber strips
for a '73 ?
looking for replacement running board molding
inserts for a 1973 Glassic do you have any idea
where I might look for 3/4 inch inserts
are the moldings that go on the running boards
and on the rear of the car. there are 4 on each
running board that have a channel that rivets on
and then the molding snaps into a groove in the
I found a place in San Diego that has what
they call a 5/8 inch molding insert and I ordered
this since that's what I thought we had but it
turns out these people measure the back side of
the channel instead of the molding itself.
If there is anybody that has done a
restoration on a Glassic that might know it would
be a big help.
|Tire / wheel sizes for a '72
just purchased a 72 Roadster. Does anyone here
know what the biggest rear wheel tire set is that
will fit within the rear fenders? I want to
go the hot rod route. In a perfect world, I would
like to know width, backspace offset
etc. Please respond here or feel free to
contact me directly at email@example.com
My gut feeling is that '72 to '74
were easy years to up-size the rear wheels. If it
were ME, I would check the photo albums for a
look that I liked, jot down the car # and try to
contact the owner (from the owners list) for
|Disc brakes on a '72 ?
|My dad has a 1972 and wants
to convert to disc brakes? Do you have any
information on how and if it is possible?
the NJ area:
I'M LOOKING FOR A GLASSIC / REPLICAR ROADSTER IN
GOOD CONDITION. PLEASE CALL AT 908-233-8439. CY
NOTE - I believe that he
found and bought one in Florida 7/9/07
|Disc Brakes in a
|I had a real bad shimmy in
the front end, it would almost pull the wheel out
of your hands. I put new shocks on the
front, they looked original. I also
replaced the stabilizer shock and it took care of
the problem. It appears that the front end
is a scout axle set up. Tube type.
I would like to put disc's on the front.
Can you give me some info as to what I can use.
parts in a '74? I would have expected Ford parts
|Chevy engine into a Glassic?
+ Internat 4 cyl. for sale
|Bill (car # 313)
anyone installed a S/B Chevy engine in an early
Glassic? Did you have to cut the firewall
for the distributor.?? I have great 4
cyl. International running gear for sale
|Repairing a running board
|(1978 Replicar) Has anyone
repaired cracks in the newer one-piece
plastic running board covers if so with
what ? thank you Dave
|Fuel tank sending unit
|Does anyone know what fuel
sending unit would fit in my 1980 Replicar? It
worked fine when I parked it for the winter, but
when I got it out the other day to take
a drive, it didn't work. I've checked it
out, and it appears to be the sender or maybe the
float. It just reads empty all the time.
My experience with my
'78 may help (see index on the website -fuel
sending unit). Think simple at first, such as a
loose or disconnected wire or gruond. A Bronco
sending unit should still be good on this year -
looking for a reasonably priced Glassic either in
good or restorable condition. Please e-mail
me at firstname.lastname@example.org
with information if anyone has a car for sale or
can provide me with any leads. Thanks for
|Sid & Bonnie
|I would like any
information anyone can recommend. We have a 1973
Glassic Roadster with one hood latch and catch
missing. We just purchased car #885
The best bet is probably a handle
from a Model A parts catalog. I recall someone
using those but he had to take each one apart and
turn the hook part around, since the Model A
hooks are hinged the wrong way. Model A parts
catalog vendors can be found on the LINKS page.
Frederick, 4/2/07: A few months ago I purchased a
1962 Willys wagon. The hood latches look the same
as the ones on my Glassic #600. Just another
place to look
|Grill shell for a '66?
|Those of you who have an
early Glassic 66-67, where are you getting the
replacement grill shells? How hard are they
to install as far as fit and finish?
Nothing that I know of fits. I
have heard of people cutting down 1931 Stainless
Steel shells (making them about 4 inches
shorter), but have also had reports that the
shape of the hood is different from a real Model
A shell. Don't throw out your old Glassic
shell!-- I hope others have suggestions. A
number of people have installed '32 shells,
which, I believe, also have to be made shorter
and also have issues with the curve of the top
matching the hood.
|Adding Power Steering.
would like to put power steering on my '73
Phaeton #913. Has anyone done this, or have
|Door handle source?
|Does anyone know where to
get replacement door handles for a 1966 Glassic
Phaeton? Or if you have a set in very good
condition please email me. Thanks,
1934 ford handles on car # 218 they fit great I
just had to cut the shaft down a little.
would look at International Scout handles first,
since the early Glassics were closely connected
with Internationals. I looked for handles
to match my 1978, by checking pictures of all
sorts of '70s Ford products (like on eBay, etc.)
and never did find ones that looked like my
78. Anyone with leads on any year
outside door handles, please share your info.
|Roadster for sale.
ROADSTER, #1124; 302 MOTOR, NEW PAINT, TIRES
& SEATS. I PUT A FULL BENCH SEAT FOR MORE
COMFORT AND STILL HAVE THE ORG. BUCKETS. THERE
ARE SOME OLD PICS. ON WEB SITE BUT CAN'T SEEM TO
GET BACK TO IT TO PUT THE NEW PICS. I WILL GET MY
COMPUTER COACH (WIFE) TO HELP.
VINCE $ 16,500 email@example.com
(Location: Florida -
see owners list)
folks, I'm looking for a Glassic roadster in good
condition on the east coast. Please e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org.
|1974 - several questions.
got a 74 roadster #1102( in NJ), can anybody
provide ideas or help re:
;There is no top or
top frame! Does anyone have pics or drawings or
If anyone sends this info
or pics to GlassicAnnex@aol.com, I will post it on the website.
Some people have built non-folding frames from
conduit pipe. A tonneau cover is also an interim
The floor shifter is wobbly, is it a Mustang
unit and if so what year?
Has any body got info re. seatbelt attachment?
How about a catch or retainer for the rumble
seat, I don't want to squash the kids at the
Are their headers that fit the 302?
More than one person has
suggested that headers will add heat to the
engine compartment and in the car, as well as
noise. Having had a set that bolted up fine but
ended up hitting the transmission, the best idea
is to buy them were you can return them if they
don't clear the frame etc.
Does anybody have details about the hood side
panels, mine are missing!?
Unless someone has a pair
they don't want, you may have to borrow a set as
a pattern and have them made out of sheet metal.
Look at pictures on the Annex and notice the
"tumor" or bulge for, I guess, the
alternator on one side.
Does anybody know what happened to Oscar, the
guy who built a top at Asbury Auto Tops ?
|How many Roadsters?
|Does anyone know the total
number of Glassic Roadsters made vs the total
number of Phaetons made?
Annexmaster: Probably not. Since the
records were lost in a flood after the company
closed, we likely will never know exactly how
many cars were made, let alone what body style.
The best we can do is extract from the cars that
are registered on the site. We now have 70%
Phaetons and 30% Roadsters on the list.
Expanding that to our estimated 1600 or so total
cars, we can guess that about 450 were
Roadsters and around 1150 were Phaetons. A coupe
and a couple of pickup trucks were in there too.
just missed out bidding on a Glassic from Utah
($12,000.00). I have looked over the
website and have had little suceess finding a
Glassic for sale. Is there anyway to get
the word out that I am looking for one?
West Chester, PA
|Std. trans. for sale
owner of car 562, a 1972 with a three speed,
changed over to a C-4 auto transmission. He now
If anyone wants the manual transmission parts,
I'll make them a sweet deal!!
Truck/Tractor collector looking for International
Prefer nice original or restored car, must be on
International chassis. Body style not
Tackaberry (613) 924-2634
days (This area
code is in Ontario) email@example.com
|International carb WANTED
|Dennis - car 189
|Does anyone have a good
1bbl Carb for the international engine?
|Wiper motors for a 73 wanted
LOOKING FOR WIND SHIELD WIPER MOTORS FOR A 73
GLASSIC ROADSTER.. THE
ONES THAT BOLT TO THE TOP OF THE WINDSHIELD
ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED...
RICHARD IN MONTANA...
the builder of the Glassics shared his
recollections about the wipers HERE
See the LINKS page for
sources of International parts.
|Glassic WANTED LA, Calif.
LOOKING FOR A GLASSIC OR REPLICAR OF A MODEL
"A" ROADSTER OR PHAETON IN VERY GOOD TO
EXCELLENT SHAPE, LOW MILEAGE WITH V-8 OR
INTERNATIONAL ENGINE. I LIVE IN THE LOS ANGELES
AREA AND CAN BE REACHED AT HGBROWN @ UCLA.EDU.
|Length of a light bar
|To anyone who has a light
bar on their Glassic. Please send me the
measurements for the length of what I need. I
bought one off a 31 model A and it was too long.
Im looking to get it cut down but need to
get the correct length. (car 189)
Joel, the builder, had
reported that real Model A lightbars did NOT
match Glassics. Your measurement should come from
an earlier Glassic rather than a Replicar since
they may be different. Also, be sure to
test the ANGLE of the attaching mounts as well as
the length needed since the fender shapes may be
different than a real Model A.
| I am looking for a Glassic
Roadster at a reasonable
price. I Would be interested in one that
needs some work done on it, but would also be
interested in one in good shape.
Phone # 815-436-6632 -------- (area code
815 is in Illinois)
|Front end parts for a 1980
|I am looking for front
sway bar end links for my 1980 (car 1456)
Replicar , I owned a Shay before and the mounting
bracket on the Shay front end is the same as the
Replicar, any ideas on where to locate these sway
bar links ??? new or used would be fine
was at the auto parts store (Napa) yesterday and
what they came up with , for the sway bar end
links that I was looking for , is the front end
is a 1978 Mustang 2 , which was the same from
'74-'78........Rich W.....car #1456
|Fuel inlet for a 1972?
need help finding what they used for a fuel inlet
on a 1972. It's a one piece rubber flange and
goes to an elbow. Approximately 14 inches long
and has the fuel Vent tube going from the filler
neck to the tank.
|Panama City FL cruise in
Just hope you all will join us this year for the
Emerald Coast Cruizin
event in Panama City Beach Florida .We have
had a huge huge response. We are
expecting really thousands of cars. Our
registrations are flooding in daily
as well as our vendors we have plenty of
cruize-in events planned for the
night life, including the big kick off party at
Capt, Andersons marina on Nov.
9 (that's Thursday night). The rest are
absolutely full of fun events going on
up and down the beach. We welcome you
all come join us all. Thanks a lot .
|Looking for Dad's old Glassic
or '73 red Glassic Roadster
My father owned this roadster from new back in
the 70's car was sold in mid 80's at an estate
auction in Wenonah NJ. I am trying to locate
where the car might be now.
104 N Marion Ave
|Wanted for International
|Im looking for a good
solution for car # 189, a 1967 model, to change
my 4 lug hubs to 5 lug. Does anyone know if
they make a wheel adapter or do I need to change
out everything including axels? Im also
looking for a good working Holly 1 barrel carb
if anyone wants to part with one.
for the help in advance,
|I thought I would send a
few new pictures of #162 (at the
bottom of that page) at one of our local rod runs.
I have had new hubs made for a five bolt Chev.
pattern to match the S-10 rear end with 2.79 rear
end gears. I now have 15x6 wheels in front and
15x8 in the rear. I have lowered it about 3
with lowering blocks front and rear, installed
new front seats from scat enterprises which are
for V.W. bugs, new carpet with a custom made
shift tower for the Thunderbird shifter. It still
has the 3.8 Ford V-6 With the A.O.D. other than
cleaning and waxing it is much like I bought it.
It sure is fun to drive.
|How do I register in a show?
|Can anyone tell me how you
have entered a Glassic in a car show? The
one I have is a 1978 Phaeton. Is it entered
as best Ford product, best of
the 1930s or as other? I would
appreciate any input on
this. -- Thank you
don't know of ANY hard and fast rule on this. I
would say that you should enter in whatever
category you think you have the best chance of
winning in. As a replica, we aren't really
anything, but then we are EVERYTHING also. When a
car show is only for 1975 and older cars, I say
that I am a 1931 Ford replica. Other times,
I say that I am a 1978 replica of a '31 Ford. If
there are NO hotrods in a show, I might enter the
modified car category. I have had no reports of
anyone complaining regardless of category -- as
long as we don't try to pretend that our cars are
real Model A's. Anyone else have thoughts
on the subject?
|WANT TO BUY
to buy: a red Glassic
Ford. If you have one for sale, what I need
to know is: Has it ever been in a
accident? Has it been updated
"ie" wiring, pop rivets, engine ,
brakes, total miles? Price and
location. contact me at. --- FOUND - Richard now is
the proud owner of car 772! 8/8/06
|Wiper blades that fit a 74
|James car #
|I used ANCO 9 inch blades
part # 20-09 on my 74. They are a perfect
fit. They are available at most auto parts
|Jim: That wiper # doesn't
work for my 72 -- #581.I have different
attaching arms and they don't hook up.. Anybody
else have a clue where to get wiper blades?
|Add an electric cut off
switch for safety
|James car #
|I ordered a disconnect
switch from J. C. Whitney - catalog #
GM749003. It comes with 2 keys. Price
was around $37.00 including shipping. These
are simple to install. I put mine
under the steering column on the right side and
used the steering column bolts to attach a
bracket I made from a regular size 110 metal
electrical box. Run a battery cable
from the battery on the negative side to one side
of the electrical disconnect switch and run a
cable from the block or intake manifold to the
other connection on the disconnect switch.
This makes your cars electrical system all shut
down when stored or not in use. The switch
also prevents easy theft of your car when shut
down with the disconnect switch. I
hope this idea helps some of you. I
have it on my tow truck also.
'78, car 1254 has a cut off switch installed
under the driver's seat, with the wires under the
car and a hole through the floor for the switch.
MINE was installed on the POSITIVE side, with a
separate tiny wire bypassing the switch and going
to the clock/radio. The previous owner had
covered the battery cable in a piece of garden
hose, which seemed like it offered some added
protection. So, should the switch go on the
positive or negative side of the wiring, or does
it not matter?
|I don't think it matters
what side you break but I would break the
positive side. The reason I say this
is the vehicle may try to find another path to
ground( IE your body).
Most all switches I have ever seen break the hot
leg. All 120 volt ac
break the hot leg for the reason I mentioned
above. You being the ground for
120 volts could be deadly but I guess 12 volts
would just scare the sh@t out of you.
|What brake master cylinder on
|James car #
|I have some questions
concerning the brake system on my 74
Glassic. 1 - What was the master cylinder
used on most Glassics in these models? Mine
does not have a 73 Maverick master cylinder.
2 - For those of
you who have power brakes, what is the best
fitting power brake and master cylinder
unit to use to convert my car to power brakes?
|Wanted Wheel cover center
Replacement steering wheel?
located in Qatar, on the Saudi Arabian peninsula
is looking for 6 center caps for the original
wheel covers for his car #641, a 1972. If you
have a set of these, please contact him to
discuss cost - he knows he will be responsible
He also asks:
Is there a nicer steering wheel that
one can buy to replace the existing one that
looks like a pinto steering wheel? Something that
looks from the 30, 40 era that would replace only
the top part.
|Need clutch parts source
|Thomas Peck firstname.lastname@example.org
HAVE 1971 CLASSIC ROADSTER, IH CHASSIS, NEED
CLUTCH MASTER AND SLAVE CYL. KITS OR COMPLETE
UNITS. THE M/C HAS ON IT GIRLING CAMBRIAN
10, 5/8" BORE. THE SLAVE HAS GIRLING
#64673010, EITHER B3 OR 83 IT'S 1/2"
BORE. WHERE CAN I GET THESE????
I hope this can give some help. When I bought car
141 the previous owner
had replaced these parts. I do not have any part
numbers but he did say that
he got his part cross referenced at NAPA and they
were able to find what he
needed. Also www.scoutparts.com has these pieces
but they seem to be priced
for the restorer i.e. a little spendy. Good luck,
|G Schmidt #581
|Tom: for master cyl /slave
cyl /brake parts try Brake and Equipment
Warehouse .mpls mn. www.brakeplace.com or
1 800 233 4053
|Side curtain question
previous owner of my car #1121 (a
roadster ) gave me side curtains that he
said were furnished with the car when new.
In trying to install them it seems that the
zipper tabs are on the wrong side. The
only way to install them is for the driver to
get into the car and have someone install
the curtains from the outside. Unless I am
missing something, there is no way to get out
except to force the door open thus unsnapping the
outside snaps. Do I need to have the zippers
replaced or what ? Next subject is regarding
seats. The present seats are from a Honda
Prelude and the headrests stick way up above
the car body and with the top down, they make the
car look odd. Since there is very limited space,
which junk yard seats can I get that don't
have the high head rests ? Any
suggestions will be appreciated.
|Tom, On my Roadster I zip
them up first then snap on the outside. I dont
know if yours is the same or not.As for the seats
your very limited as to what you can use and
still look right. I have a set of seats from the
back of a Pontiac Transport Van.Not sure what
model though.I know that it has 5 or six bucket
seats in the back instaed of benches.They
are small with low backs.Im installing them this
winter in mine with a console.Hope this helps
|Wheel covers for sale
have a good set of original wheel covers
that Glassic used in 1973. See photos of car 800.
Get my Info from the owner list and call or
Any suggestions for replacement headers for a '72
|Gelcoat or paint?
|I've repaired the rip on
the driver's rear fender of my 72, SN 562. I've
also been examining and sanding the many cracks
on the tops of all the fenders. My car is red
with black fenders. The body of the car is one
piece. The fenders are integral to the body,
unlike the all metal original Model A.
I noticed when I was
buffing out the car that the black buffed out
very easy in comparison to the red. I've also
noted that when I sand through the black, there
is red underneath. I'm wondering, is it possible
that the black is actually paint over red
comprehend how you would use two colors of
gelcoat with such precision on a one piece unit.
Does anyone have any idea how they did this, or
is this actually paint? When did they go from
gelcoat to painting the car?
Joel, the car builder:
Clint - Just remember that
the body is formed in a "mold" that is
upside down and inside out when compared to the
finished product... To achieve the two tone
effect, the "red" part of the body is
taped off and the Black is sprayed into the
partially exposed mold... Then the tape &
paper is removed and the red is sprayed into the
now exposed part of the mold with the overspray
covering the black around the edges... SSsoooo if
you sand through the black you will hit
Now if you are going to paint over the
gelcoat, you MUST use a polyester, catalyzed
primer to fill the little cracks (or crazes)
or they will transfer through the paint...
It is hard to sand so spray it as smooth as you
can... Then work up with lacquer base primer to
get ready for the paint.... Paint started
in '73 if my memory is right, but lots could have
happened to your car in the last 25 years that we
don't know about.... Hope this
helps.... The Phantom
|How can I add Power and disc
looking into doing several things to my Glassic,
and need some info if possible. I have car #633,
1972 Roadster. V/8, C-4, tube straight axle, and
I think Maverick V/8 rear end Does anyone
offer spindles, rotors, calipers
and brackets that are bolt on to convert to
disc brakes? If so, what kind of car would you
buy for? I also want to convert to power brakes.
What kind of booster, Master Cylinder? I want to
convert to power steering. What steering box
, pump ,column and any thing else I may
need? If possible I would like to have a column
with tilt and the dimmer switch.
|Distributor cap for a 4
|No name given
can I find a distributor cap for the 4cyl
International with the male tips on the cap? Also
I put a small reserve boat tank in my trunk with
a boat rubber hose and hook up off a
"T" to the fuel line
for International parts can be found under LINKS, menu item
#13 on the Annex website.
engine in a '73?
Wheel covers, mirror, taillight wanted
anybody know why the Glasstron Boat people used
the Industrial version of the 302 for these cars?
I hear that they have more horsepower, but some
parts are different, water pumps, for example.
like to find a good set of original wheel covers
that Glassic used in 1973. Mine have rusted in
recent storage. Maybe some Glassic owners who
changed wheels have some that aren't being used.
My ammeter has never worked. Don't know why
Added 3/27/06: I also need a passenger side
outside mirror. My bracket got broken. Also
need the chrome plated tail light and bracket on
|Car 562. I took the wife
for a ride yesterday. I noticed the steering had
a lot of slop and seemed unsteady in the
tracking. Later in the day a friend came over and
we discovered that when the wheel is turned, the
plate where the steering box bolts is flexing and
deflecting. Is this something others have
encountered? Apparently, it is going to
require some sort of reinforcement and closer
inspection. I don't think anything is cracked,
but I will have to pull it down to really inspect
it well. This is with the tube axle.
see his solution to this problem HERE.
curious to know if anyone has tried the 28-34
Ford rack and pinion conversion for a straight
axle that is offered by Unisteer. The link is https://www.unisteer.com/product.php?productid=16152&cat=250&page=1
I don't know
if it will fit my chassis or not. Not certain if
the 72 frame and steering dimensions will
coincide with the original Model A or not. It
would be interesting to find out. (This has
been answered already -- no relationship between
our Glassic frames and real Model A's)
noted that my steering column is almost touching
the valve cover of the 302 in my car on the
passenger side. Do you know if this is common
either? BTW, do you have any idea what the
steering column and box was off of in 72? (Possible
places to start looking - Econoline, Bronco or
other Ford product of the era)
|Looking for car 959
959p (a 1972 Phaeton)
I bought this car in 1981 as a wedding present
for my wife. After 25 years and 6 kids, I'm
trying to see if I can find it again or buy a
similar car for our anniversary in June. It was
yellow but I had it repainted burgundy. If anyone
can help, please feel free to give them my info.
Also, I have some materials from Replicars
(Sylvia Oliver) in 1981 if anyone wants copies.
Thanks, Bob White -- Golden CO.
|Adding AC, PB, PS
|Wondering if anyone has
added an aftermarket A/C, power brakes and/or
Power Steering in their Glassic Phaeton.
(1972) Which unit? Manufacturer? Etc. Any
suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. email@example.com
|1972 Tail light lens
|Does anyone know where to
find replacement lens for a 1972 phaeton tail
lite? Still trying to find wiper blades
|Will the person who
e-mailed me about having a lens, please get back
to me as the wife deleted your e-mail before I
could respond. The lens number is Grote 215-218
sae-1. I need one
anyone help me with what type of outside door
handle will work to replace the one on my 1978
I am anxious to
hear the answer to this one as my outside handles
are pitted. I would suggest looking at pictures
of 1975 to 1978 Broncos, Econoline vans, or other
Ford products to start with - since that's where
many of our Glassic parts came from. -- (It does
not look like a Bronco, but a couple of poor pics
of Econolines make me want to check THAT idea
2/21/06 -- Words
from Joel, the builder of the cars (remember,
this is nearly 30 years ago that he built these) "as far as door knobs are
concerned, try a Mazda pickup or a little Ford
pick-up, vintage '68 through '75 or so....
Who knows... they just might work.... "
Since then I have been looking at pics on the
web and not seen a match so far in Ford (its
amazing how many people don't feel a need to show
close-ups of the door knobs when selling an old
Ford. I have found NO pictures of old Mazda truck
door handles yet. -- the truck pics that I HAVE
seen show handles that are similar but have a
round push button, not rectangular like Glassics.
engine & trans for sale
SALE Engine and transmission, 4 cyl. and three
speed transmission. The unit had 34000 miles on
it when we got the car (#271) You can give
me a call at 812-275 6023 FROM 8 to 9 or email CJSPROLES@PEOPLEPC.COM
|Cruise-in in New York
I am attending the Lake George, New York car
cruise ( Sept. 8-10) this year with my 1980
Replicar car # 1456 .....if anyone is taking
their Glassic/Replicar to this cruise and would
like to meet at the show e-mail me at
|Gas tank for 1967
any one have a source for new gas tanks for early
replicars? My 1967 ser # 162 tank cracked in both
folded corners, one at the top and one at the
bottom. The tank is made of light guage aluminum
and has stress fractured. I have been to several
fab shops in the Portland Or. area and they have
refused to make a new one. I am told they must be
|JIM AND CAROLYN
I REPLACED MY GAS TANK WITH A TANK FROM A U.S.
POSTAL JEEP. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, YOU MAY
CALL 812-275 6023 OUR CAR IS A 1967
Scout engine for sale, Original.
may be putting a new engine in my Glassic. I have
a strong running International Scout 152 engine
in it with only approximately 4500 miles! Thats
right, a 1966 with 4500 miles. I just in the last
month replaced all hoses, belts, fluids etc. If
interested, please email me at
firstname.lastname@example.org. This is from Glassic
number 106 and is located in San Diego, CA. Stan
See car on web site.
looking for a steamer trunk preferably black for
my 31/72 Glassic #619 of La Mirada, CA, if anyone
knows where I can get one please email me at
email@example.com. Thanks MrP
new automotive type trunk with leather straps etc
can be found in the different magazines like
Hemmings News and Old Car world. These mags
should be at your local book store.
own car #766, here in Dayton, Ohio.
I have made several modifications to the car; 1.
added a power booster to the brakes, 2. replaced
steering column with shifter on column, 3.
replaced original seats with Ford Escort seats,
and lastly 4. removed the A/C unit.
The car has a nice new radio but the original
antenna is damaged. The antenna is attached on
the passenger side panel, just in front of the
front door jam. It is attached at two points by
black plastic brackets. The plastic is brittle
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement
looking at the volkswagen antenna that what I
replaced mind with
|#583...Yesterday while driving my '72
Phaeton I hit a pothole and my steering started
to shimmy wildly. The steering wheel was moving
back and forth and pretty much I had no control
over the front wheels. Then it was fine as the
car and I slowly went home. Any thoughts on the
|I had the same problem; checked the
tire balance and the shimmy damper,both were
fine.My problem ended up being the caster
angle,as the springs got older,I some how lost
the angle.I restored the angle with shims and the
shimmy when away.Hope this gives you a place to
start.Maybe the rubbers holding the shimmy damper
are gone or bad.I also removed one leaf from the
front springs to soften the ride.Good luck
does one find wiper blades for a 72 glassic? Mine
are Anco and they are 8inches long.
is a replacement # If they are too long a good
pair of lineman pliers aka sidecutters will trim
anco number doesn't work for me as all my parts
stores can't match it up using that number. the
ones they had shipped in are for curved
windsheilds,not a straight blade for flat
|Removing the back of the back seat
you tell me if you know how to remove the back of
the back seat? I have car 800 a 1973 Phaton. I
can look down between the car and the wood that
makes up the back of the seat and see two blocks
of wood that seem to be spacers. It appears that
the two blocks of wood are the connection between
the car and the seat but I see no way of getting
it lose but to remove the revits at the top of
the exterior fiberglass shell. This seems like it
would remove the whole rear interior shell which
is what the seat is attached to.
I am trying to install shoulder harness in the
back seat for the kids. (My wife say that they
are unsafe with just the lap belts) I purchased
racing harnesses and I am planning to cut small
slits in the rear deck and fasten the harness to
the floor near the existing seatbelt locations.
their is two nuts holding the rear seat
back,you get to them from under the car!
these cars have any owner's manuals for them?
Mine is a 73 Glassic (31 Ford) 1020.
Joel, the builder of the cars back then,
reported that there never were any owners manuals
made for any year of the Glassics or Replicars.
Finding an old Mustang or Maverick manual could
help you with engine maintenance issues.
have a 1972 Glassic Phaeton with a Ford 302 V-8
engine. I live in Florida and in the summer the
engine tends to overheat. I have had the engine
block and radiator cleaned, changed the
thermostat, temperature gauge and sending unit,
but it hasnt helped.
Has anyone had similar problems and if so what
has been done to remedy the problem? Does anyone
know what radiator was used on the cars
manufactured in 1972?
Does this problem occur above 30 MPH or at
"idle" like in a parade or waiting for
a long train to pass.... If it happens when you
"go slow" try a flex fan and 100%
antifreeze... If it happens at speed, it is the
first I've heard of that being a problem.... Good
luck, The Phantom
try a milodon 30% over water pump .
Don't forget -- even at proper temperatures
our cars may overflow the radiator when you shut
the engine down after a trip. Some owners have
added those aluminum recycling tanks to their
Of course, the original Mustangs had overflow
tanks, but the Glassics did not. Also, you don't
want to fill the old radiators to the top like
you do with the new cars.
I have a 1973 Glassic and bought a radiator
for a 1966 mustang 3 row and it fit like same
that was in it. I got mine on ebay but this site
has them www.americanpony.com/store.mv?p=521002
More on the "heating problem" we
discussed some time back... I have since put
"real" gauges in my car and I have
found that the temp gauge (electric) that read
220+ only reads 180 on a thermometer gauge
(Stewart Warner), so I wonder IF there really was
a heating problem on the engine???
response to Blake's question about
overheating: I put a 1958 - 1960 Ford
T'Bird radiator core in my 1973 Glassic.
They mount horizontally in the T'Birds, but I
mounted it vertically in the Glassic. It
solved the problem for me. I think
the '73 Glassic had a Mustang
More on this topic can be found at OVERHEATING
have just purchased a 1974 model Glassic Phaeton
and was wondering if anyone has information on
this car. I need to replace a lot of parts and
don't have a clue about the u-joints, heater
core, steering Etc. Please help me if you can.
the heater core can be made up at a radiator
shop. The drive train is ford so the u joints
could be bought from the dealer or a good parts
store. my front end is a f100 ford truck with
same brakes and a Fairlaine rearend the front
springs are Pinto. I don't know what the rear
springs are. I had them re-arced and extra leaf
added to both front and rear
|Gas tank capacity
any one ever increase the gasoline capacity of a
the way the fuel tank is located on my 73
there is not a way to increase the capacity it
sets between the rear springs and the rear end. I
have about three inches clearance
Have you looked into a company called Tanks
Inc (320-558-6882) P.O. Box 400 Clearwater MN
55320. I believe they have what they call saddle
tanks which fit under running boards or just
inside the frame. I have car no. 141 a 4 cylinder
and when I looked under that area it looks like
they should fit. Hope this helps, (Ezroder )
on the Annex website scrapbook (1) page 6 is
an example of an add-on tank for more gas.
|Where to Find Parts - 74 Glassic
anyone please let me know where I can go online
here or outside for any parts I may need for my
new 74 Glassic? Right now I need a front grille
and maybe a few other minor parts. Any help would
be most appreciated. Thanks, Mr. Ed
I have a '73, #720, mostly like a mustang of
the same age with wheel and brake assemblies of
an econoline van. Body and frame are custom,
unique to Glassic with some Model A parts
fitting. I've had engine dressed up with lots of
chrome, pretty standard stuff for a 302 v8. Seats
and top probably need custom work or trial and
error on seat replacements, had mine recovered by
a pro. Planning grill upgrade to '32 style and
fiberglass refresh along with paint job, same
colors. Removed A/C, ride mostly with top down.
Most engine parts readily available, even new in
crate 302 versions from Ford. Be sure to read
tips in A to Z list, Don does a great job on this
web site, other owners are quite helpful as well.
Bob sounds like you have your work cut out for
you but seem to be coming along pretty well with
it. Still looking for that grille. New question -
I'd like to convert my drum brakes to disc. How
can I go about doing this for my 73 Glassic (31
Ford)? How can I make the conversion? Mine is a
1020. Any suggestions appreciated. Mr Ed
anyone replaced the bushings in the front and
rear spring shackles? I'm at a loss as to what
was used on the early cars...I have # 270.
Any help appreciated..
Bob, I recently had all 4 of my leaf springs
rearched and added Teflon spacers between each
leaf. I also used Teflon spacers or washers on
all the spring to shackle bolts. When I picked
them up the guy at the spring shop said he also
replaced one of the bushings in the end. I took
it that this is a standard part that all spring
shops would have. By the way, the Teflon made a
huge difference. No squeaks and no popping when
turning the front wheels.
|Parking light lenses for a 1970
by Don for Ross:
I have a question for anyone that might be able
to help. I am trying to locate lenses for the
turn signal/parking lights on the front fenders
of my Roadster #349. The current lenses have the
following info printing on them: SAE-P, Signal
Stat Pat. Pend. No 9 Bkln NY USA I sure would
appreciate it if someone could tell me where to
find lenses to match.
E-mail at firstname.lastname@example.org or 941-729-0536
A message from "The Phantom" said:
"Signal Stat" who would have been the
manufacturer of the lens... We used Grote lights
back then also and they were "bubble
clearance lights" or "cab marker
lights" rewired for a double filament
bulb... Go to a NAPA store and find a sympathetic
counterman.... Good luck... The Phantom
|Wider wheels for a 1966
trying to find custom wheels to fit my 66
Glassic. The bolt pattern is 4 x 4.5. They are 15
inch rims about 5.5 wide. I would like a little
wider wheels for the back.Any help would be
All the Scout 800A models used standard issue
2 wheel drive 4 lug wheels. (the only vehicles
that did NOT use the 4 lug wheels were the 4
wheel drive models that were built for
Abercrombie & Fitch...) I do know of an
instance where wider wheels in the rear were
necessary, and the problem was solved by saving
the 4 lug "centers" and using 15"
station wagon rims that were welded to the old
centers. Watch the offset so the new wheels don't
make the tires stick out beyond the edge of the
fenders (the modified wheels were actually
widened to the inside rather than to the outside
as is commonly done.) Otherwise a few phone calls
to the custom wheel manufacturers should turn up
any available aftermarket wheels that quite
possibly could be available today... Good luck,
| Sensitive highway steering
driving my 77 phaeton on road trips the
steering is very sensitive and must be extremely
alert to keep it on the road.
any suggestions appreciated.
Edited by: GlassicAnnex
at: 5/15/03 6:54:40 am
IF the car has a tube front axle, caster could
be the problem IF the tapered shims have been
removed from the perch plate...I can't remember
the preferred angle of caster but if he uses the
suggested alignment for a 2 wheel drive Scout
800A it should rectify the problem... If not add
1 or 2 degrees of caster because with power
steering it won't affect the turning and
maneuverability of the car at slow speeds... IF
the car has the Mustang II front A frame
suspension, make sure the caster is set for the
Mustang II... Wander at highway speeds is an
alignment problem, and I'm assuming that in
either case there is about 1/8" toe in in
the setup of the front wheels. Camber would cause
the car to want to go in one direction or the
other, not wander, so I don't think it is a
My 1978 Phaeton is also very
"touchy" at highway speeds. New tie rod
ends and an alignment job made it so it stays
straight, but I feel like if I gave a small jerk
on the wheel I could roll it over.
Tire pressure changes might help some also. Since
the cars are light, a tire pressure of 20 psi is
not too low.
Also, remember that even at best, our cars are
FLAT across the front, which I am sure makes for
some unpleasant air movement at 70+ miles per