New Message Board

The messages from Jan through May 2009 (WITH THE HIGHLIGHTED BACKGROUND) have been copied over to the new board, and the old ones have been left on this page for future reference.

WHY? For those who care, we used to have a message board, run by an outside service, and it worked fine. It, like the new one had a monthly fee, and meant that theAnnexmaster did not have to enter messages by hand. Each viewer could enter his own and it would appear right away.  Then they lost our records. Their backups were inadequate and we lost over a years worth of data.

They gave us no price break for that, so I closed the board. Now, we are trying again.

CHOICES - This new company seems to have two options, either NO REGISTRATION, or you HAVE to register to use the board.  Ideally a mixture would be what we need - sort of an either/or.  Right now, no user name, no password needed, but that may change if I find out that we lose too many features by having the board totally public.

what steering is used in the 1977 phaeton 302 engine c4 trans what box ? what steering pump ? NJ 609 709 0977
 

I think that the answer is going to be different depending on whether you have front leaf springs or the newer coil springs. The style changed somewhere around your VIN # of 1100.

My 1977 #1100 has front leaf springs . what type steering box might it have ?

Joel, the builder of the cars - provided the following in 2009: Just knowing to start with FORD products is helpful, especially after recently learning that they had used trailer springs in the backs of some Glassics (around 1973-74 - maybe others)

It will have a "tag" on the top of the box that identifies the part number... That is the best info I can come up with...  Otherwise just take it to a Ford dealership and identify it as best you can visually....  the tag is the only best way I know of.... 

Rear End Axle Ration & getting more power out of the 152 4 cylinder.--  Does anyone know the rear axle ratio of the original Glassic. I have a 1966 Glassic with the 4 cylinder 152 engine and want to know the rear axle ratio. Also, has anyone had this engine rebuilt to increase it's power or done something else to increase the power or improve  it's performance?  Mine seems way under powered . If you have made changes, what have you done and was it successful?  -- Thanks, Stan -- Home Phone: 619-461-5118 (California)

A small clue might be that, while many problems come up time and again, the Annexmaster has not seen this one before - suggesting that rather than being a general problem, it might be more of a repair, or tune-up issue.

Does anyone know what springs were used in a 1974 roadster (REAR). I need to replace the spring eye bushings and every attempt at ordering Ford replacement parts has come up with the wrong ones. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Contact_WorkPhone: 408-842-1234  (Calif.)
Contact_HomePhone: 408-612-6501
I have tried Bronco, Pinto, Maverick, LTD, Mustang, Econoline, F150, I am trying to find a picture to see if international might look right.. Any help would be appreciated

A surprising answer has been added to the technical section.

And some parts that Rich DID find that worked:
 

I have recently rebuilt the rear end and drive line the Ford parts are what worked. I ordered from Kragens (A car parts store) Rear seals and bearings and all the brake hardware and wheel cylinders matched 1974 Ford Maverick. However the driveline rebuild I am working on, Ford Maverick u joints do not fit. I will let you know what does. We have also completely replaced all of the front end with coil-overs and I will send pictures as to the looks soon. Still trying to find the rear leaf spring bushings.. I can tell you what does not fit, Bronco, Maverick, Mustang, Econoline…

I am in need of a temperature gauge for my 1978 Replicar. Does anyone have one for sale? Mark 360-921-1314
 

I'm looking for new wheels to put on my recent purchase of a Glassic.....the original spoke wheel covers are rusted and I would like to either find new wheel covers or some rims that would compliment the original look of the car...What's best for me to do????  Acushnet,  MA --WorkPhone: 774-955-9560
First, I hope you will REGISTER your car on the website if you have not already done so. Adding "known" Glassics to our list is my reward for keeping the site current. Now, a couple of general comments on your question:

There are at least 3 different bolt patterns on Glassics, depending on what year car you have. A good idea regarding wheel purchases is to take the car to buy the wheels, and try the wheels on the car to be sure the bolt pattern is correct, as well as the backspacing, AND the clearance - especially the front wheels that should be turned all the way side to side to be sure they don't hit anything.

Finally, a great thing about Glassics is that there is no value in keeping anything "original" - meaning you are free to do what you LIKE. Look at the photo album and pick a look that you like (and fits your budget). Whether it is wire wheels and wide whitewalls, or baby moon hubcaps and trim rings, or the hot rod look of mag wheels -- it is up to you to select. -- A dealer in odd cars told me once that he did not like that my fender mount spares did not match the other 4 wheels - he had a good point - but finding 6 matching rims is harder than 4. Good luck and send pictures when you decide.

BRATTONS ANTIQUE AUTO PARTS (800) 255-1929, WWW.BRATTONS.COM  in their catalog of model a parts is a couple of nice 12x18 black and white factory photos of Phaetons. Roadsters also, They sell for 4 bucks each. About 40 model A pictures in all are for sale. Spring is finally here!
The Annexmaster has used Brattons and likes them as a company. They seem to be nice, helpful folks. Clue: on the left side of their web page select the category FACTORY photos. Photos of 4 door Phaetons are available, as well as the TWO door that inspired our Glassics.

I have one question, and one possible answer (the item below). First, my door hinges (#913) have a lot of play in them, and it seems the hinge pins are a bit undersized for the hinge holes. Does anyone have a line on someplace that may sell slightly larger hinge pins?
Rick Potter

I have removed the white rubber strips on the running boards and repainted. It looks great, but will eventually get scratched up. I have been looking for running board material with little luck. The best I can come up with is rubber hall runner, cut to size. BUT...I recently used some bed liner paint on another vehicle, and I think I will try to use it as running board covers. Pep Boys had two types. . One is rubber based, and I don't like it. The other is more like Line-X, it dries hard, and is made by duplicolor, and comes in spray cans. They also have a roller applied I am going to try this on my running boards and will get back to you with the results.
Rick Potter -- PLEASE  - share those results. How the edges will turn out may be important. And, if you are not putting back the white strips, don't throw them out. Those, and the little tips are hard items to find for people who need replacements.

I am looking for a luggage rack for my Glassic Roadster # 419. It has the rods with the post for the rail but not the rack itself. also looking to replace all of the chrome items on the car. If anyone has any of these, I would rather buy from an owner than from 20 different vendors. Thanks Roger, Texas, 214-801-3696
 

I just bought this (Car 419). Found it under Annex. Would like to talk to someone who has one like it. Need some basics about engine and accessories. Intent is to restore it completely as is.

Does anyone have any info for putting a set of power windows in my 73 roadster #885?
(207) 923-3056
http://www.glassicannex.org/914/914.htm -- This is the only car that the Annexmaster knows of that has power windows. I think they were done by the owner prior to Bobbie in California  The pics may help.

I need a fuel tank for a 76 Phaeton, does anyone know one that will work? also does anybody have any interest in buying the car, new brakes, fuel pump, carb, good top. It still needs tires and other but runs.  Ken is in Orlando, FL--  407 353-5669
 

I've got a Glassic roadster #659. It has a bench seat with about 1/16' of padding. I really don't like the bench seat idea, too easy to slide around on. I would like to convert to bucket style seats, but don't know what might fit in the roadster.

I need suggestions, recommendations, or experience related words of wisdom. Roadster season is coming to Maine soon and I want to be ready!!!

On another note, does anyone have a drawing of the dashboard? I'm going to make one from walnut and need some dimensions to start with. Just the dash board, side to side. I've already got the instrument cluster finished, but need some details. Please help on either of these topics. Many thanks in advance. Tony Dixon   (work: 207-833-5934)

Some seat ideas are posted HERE  -- which is a link from the "Body" part of the Annex Technical Section

Are the master cylinders and clutch cylinder available?
International Scout parts should be available - perhaps through a NAPA store. Having the part in-hand, or a good close-up picture of it makes their job easier. On line Scout parts websites might be good also. See the Annex links page at http://www.glassicannex.org/links.htm#int

Napa CA -- Looking for a Glassic , any model, in great shape, Call 707-224-0342 or E-Mail

Battery: The earlier cars had the battery under the hood - Later on, they were under the back seat (power steering, brakes and A/C used up all the room under the hood) - a royal pain to service since the only access was from under the car. One person reported building extensions to his cables that terminated in the panel at the side of the rear seat. Jumper cables could be hooked up to them. They also might terminate under the back seat base.

 I had considered, but never implemented, the notion of cutting a hole in the back seat floor and adding a boat or camper type access panel under the carpet. I never checked to be sure that it would be big enough or in the right place to fully access the battery.

When my car (a 1978) died several years back, AAA (another solution) hooked up to the solenoid and the engine block.

A third idea is keep a good battery in the car -- if the car has a 60 month warranty, replace it at 55 months or 48 months, since they seem to go bad at one month after the warranty expires.--

Someone also reported moving their battery into their trunk, but I don't know if even longer cables are the best idea.

 PLEASE CLICK  TO SUBMIT OTHER SOLUTIONS TO THE ANNEXMASTER

PS: The new trans is finally in the car, and I will someday get the time to do the grill shell and get it back on the road. Life keeps slowing down my plans.--  Like they say...If you want to hear God laugh, just tell him YOUR plans.
(see the item below dated 10/19/08)

If anyone has the definite answer, please share it with the website! I had a terrible time with my 1978 (and similar) since NONE of the Ford radiators seemed as tall as the Glassic. Checking eBay and radiator shops never did find a direct match. More than once, radiator shops have wanted to re-core and rebuild them - and that's what I had done. It was cheaper than a new radiator and seems to work, other than not being very pretty.

-- That mis-match problem may not apply to the 1973 or so cars, so a FORD product could well match. In the case of the 1978, several were the right width and mounting brackets but were not quite as tall as the Glassic. Since the shorter ones used to cool a Ford engine in their original cars, seems like they should work for us (perhaps with a flat plate to be sure the most air was forced through the radiator, instead of up and over top of it.  See also the discussion of OVERHEATING.

Reply from Gary 11/10/08 (This answer was also added to the tech section on radiators)

Radiator problems, I tried having mine cleaned and it('73 Glassic) still ran hot. I replaced mine with a new one and alls well now. The Modine part number is 2301 and the ford part number is C4DE8005C.these fit 60 to 65 Falcon with the 289 CI and A/T and A/C and is the optional 3 row one. This radiator was direct replacement in my car and yes there is a block off plate on the top off the radiator. I hope this helps someone solve their overheating problems as it did mine.

I would try removing the old part and taking it to a place like NAPA car parts and asking for help, selecting from Ford products of that year or earlier -Pinto, Maverick, Econoline are likely candidates, then other smaller Ford products.

 Bought #1480 Roadster with a 302 V8 last year. It's a fun car, I'm really enjoying it --getting many favorable comments and lots of lookers at the car on the road & at the cruise nites BUT -- A PROBLEM -- The battery loses it's charge after a half hour of running. Local mechanics are stumped. Has anyone had this problem & solved it? All suggestions will be much appreciated.

ALSO Can the battery be moved from the rumble seat to under the hood?

 Thanks in advance. Cy .
As a non-mechanic, the Annexmaster urges mechanics to remember that Glassics are fiberglass bodied cars and grounding is often at fault for problems that don't seem to make sense.

Wanted To Buy: I am looking for a Glassic, Shay or Camelot Have cash. will look at any and all, stock or modified. I am on the Oregon/ California border. email me or call me:
(530) 397-2541

Can anyone help? The hub has KH79808 stamped on it .Old drum has FOMOCO, max dia.10.09, 86559,A53 4 KH stamped on it. Can anyone please help to identify what I have and approx year? Cheers Jim Wilshire (England)
 

When I wrote to Jim to tell him I had posted his question, he answered:

Thanks ,I have since received information that it may be based on 68 to 71 Econoline and not 59 to 67 which is a narrower king pin and unfortunately I was initially advised this was the one and had it delivered from the States, I will keep you in touch with my findings on the king pin -- mine is approx 6 inch long 7/8 diameter with a holding pin hole 65mm from top . Once sorted I will send pictures of stripped suspension and conversion to disc brake along with all parts used and their sources for other members .

Message to Travis Car # 640. I have a '72 Model # 600 It has a steel tank in it.

This info provide by Fred Irvin -- fairvin@charter.net

Aug, 2008 Michael responded:

I found replacement pins at West Marine (Lincoln Park if you near Chicago). I imagine other boating supply stores would also carry them and would be a good place to search.

Great solution! Thanks. Boat supply stores are great places to browse for Glassic owners. They have lots of interesting items for us, such as lots of stainless steel hardware and "things" including nuts and bolts (at prices, I feel, cheaper than depot stores.) Also other weather - proof item that might work. For example, you can find access panel doors with frames. I had thought about using one on the floor of my Phaeton to get to the battery from the back seat.

1.) I lifted gently on the top frame and it didn't seem to want to come up more than a foot or so. Also can see that it digs into the fiberglass where the longest bow fastens/hinges to the car. I now can see why there are old scratches there. Question is, how do I do this right? Looks like a two person job? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

As I recalled, before I built a hardtop, it was not an easy job. Two people, slowly and carefully (after adding drops of oil or WD-40 to pivot points) working the scissor arrangement by lifiting the front
straight up, skyward, then, as it unfolds, rocking it forward toward the windshield. The scratching is a common problem, only avoided by slow and deliberate
top raising and lowering. NOTHING like a modern car - The builder reported great difficulty getting the mechanism to work at all and look ok - let alone
work "easily"

2.) What do you all use for vinyl cleaner/softener?

I picked by reading the labels on bottles in the auto parts store. Most did not mention convertible tops, but a couple did. Vinyl STAIN worked great for me on
old, dirty spare tire covers.

3.) What works best to clean the plastic windows without scratching or discoloring them?

Anyone have any thoughts on this, or any of the above questions?

Thanks for the suggestions. Dennis Taylor (MAINIAC) Work: 207-645-3203

Does anyone know what wire goes to what?A few months ago,a guy that lives south of me said that he would come up & help me w/the old wiring then never called or showed up.I have no money to take it to wiring specialist.Is there anyone that will help out a fellow owner? I will pay for your gas to get here & back home & I will make lunch for you and provide all the mountain dew , fresca  and coffee that you need.  386-788-4874

I changed the differential in mine (Car 162) to a Chevy S-10. The spring mounts lined up perfectly and I only had to adapt the flex brake line and emergency cable. The drive line is different with mine because of the Ford V-6 / C-5 auto trans.
 

Beyond the side curtains that came with the cars originally, there are no great ideas that I have heard of. On the website are my own plastic windows (car 1254) and glass electric windows installed in a Roadster, (car 917). What info is available on these can be found by way of the Technical page -- search for "windows" Has anybody else done anything with windows?

Followup -- Links to pictures of both windows projects can now be found on the ALBUM page for that car. The links to those had gone away when the album crashed several months ago.

Reply to car owner #709. I don't see the tank straps that hold the tank to the frame. Are they broken of missing?
 

The Glassic founding father, Joel, made this comment, which which I copied from the History of Glassics page.

Although never planned as a "clone" copy, and despite various descriptive terms that have appeared over the years, the actual car on which the Glassic /Replicar was based was a 1931 Model A Ford 2-door Deluxe Sports Phaeton. The later cars (Glassic Replicars) shared some appearance features of a ‘32 Victoria in that the hoods were longer and the doors wider than earlier models.

I believe that Ford made a 1030-31 Standard Phaeton and Deluxe Phaeton, both with 4 doors, as well as a 2 door Deluxe Phaeton. I got this from the Body style identification chart in a Model A parts catalog. Ford also made both a Standard and Deluxe Roadster. In general, Ford Phaeton suggests a convertible with a front and back seat, and Roadster suggests a convertible with only a front seat and a trunk or rumble seat.

From an internet technical point of view, I have seen better vendor "websites" however  I highlighted the comment above since that is an valuable vendor feature.

Mirrors - some info can be found in the TECHNICAL CHART (scroll all the way down - look for the green shaded items), fenders steps and rumble seat handles MAY be Model A reproduction parts, (see LINKS for vendors), wiring diagrams don't exist, but FORD wiring diagrams from that year may help with the running gear parts of the wiring.

 I would like to trade steering columns with anyone who would like a floor shifter column. Or I will buy outright if anyone has one for sale.

What is the source of the folding luggage racks for Glassics?
Will Model A reproduction racks fit? Any issues installing one?

Couple more shows in the Panhandle area I'll be at including Cruisin' the Coast in Biloxi: Navarre Beach Car Show, Navarre FL 18 Oct 08 Commando Cruise In, Ft Walton Beach FL 25 Oct 08 Cruisin the Coast, Biloxi MS 5 - 12 Oct 08
 

As I understand it, the battery was moved out of the engine compartment when the A/C and wiper parts needed that space. I will guess that if Joel could have found room under the hood, he would have saved money by not running wires all the way to the back of the car.  In other words, it likely won't be an EASY task.

Four related thoughts

1) Someone told me of a trick where they had added two leads to their battery and run them up under the back seat, or into the side of the back seat area. (rumble seat area in your case) They somehow were protected, but could be exposed when necessary, so that the battery could have jumper cables attached.

2) When I needed a battery jump, AAA once came to me and, when they found out where the battery was, they jumped the car by attaching to the + end at the solenoid, under the hood.

3) I had considered, for a while, the idea of getting a "door" and placing it on the floorboard of the rear passenger seat. (rumble seat floor?) The door was to be from a boat supply store or camper parts store -- an access panel door that has hinges and a frame and is meant to rivet or screw into a camper or boat cabinet. I do not remember if the flat space on the floor was large enough, or flat enough or in the right spot for this to work.

4) My car (and a few others) have had a BATTERY KEY CUTOFF SWITCH installed. In my case, this switch is under the car and a hole under the driver's seat provides a place for the key to go. The lock was on my car for security purposes, (low level security, since all locks seem to use the same key)  but I use it to disconnect the battery. One piece of wire bypasses the switch for the radio / clock.  The part is available at car parts stores, eBay, and other places, and has a big red plastic key that stays in place when the battery is on, and is removed to shut it off.

What have others people done?

The Annex has had no reports of anything fitting our cars. I have an odd setup on car 1254 that may be of interest. I originally thought that someone had taken a rectangle of medium weight aluminum sheet and bent it to fit, rounding off the corners. Then they had made a sort of slipcover from rolled and pleated car upholstery vinyl. It looks fine.

When I checked closely, they had put the slipcover over the original plastic running boards - why, I am not sure. If you make a template, and cut out  the aluminum, a car / boat upholstery shop could likely make covers for them. My feeling is that mine have about an inch or so folded over the 4 edges and sewn to make pockets.

How have others replaced their running boards?

When I 1st got the car I had brake lights and one bright taillight and one very dim one.

One night at a cruise the taillights quit working & I drove home w/my foot on the brake pedal.

The directionals did not work at all. I have 6 wires that were not hooked to anything. I checked them & found no power going to them, so I figure they must be ground wires?  Now I have one directional on the rear & that's all.. All fuses appear to be fine.

Any ideas??  Fred

Patience and logical detective work should help solve this one. Clues are: one dim light to start with (poor ground?) and the wire nut solution (this had been a problem before?). Problems with my car have included, over time, a bad brake light switch, a spot where one taillight bulb socket was hitting the back of the outer housing (the neck actually) and shorting out. Poor grounds or no grounds are a special issue with fiberglass cars.

I would pick an end and start following the line. Perhaps start with the light that used to be dim, and check the ground. I keep a length of wire with alligator clips on each end AND have an old dome light that I made into a test lamp, with long wires attached.

As for the six wires -- I don't think its safe to assume they are ALL ground wires. Only one should have been needed. My car, for example, has a wire for backup lights, but no backup lights.

My own first step would be to take apart that dim taillight and look for shorts, or bad connections.

 A 12 volt tester - (looks like a small ice-pick with a light inside and a test wire) might be a good, low cost investment.

 I backed into a gate and put a crack in the rear fender. Since I was going to have it fixed anyway, I decided to bob the rear fenders about 3", remove the front fender wells, and remove all the white rubber strips on the running boards. I have been reading about a couple people who have had trouble with foot room.

I am 6'1' and can hardly step on the brake without crunching my left foot. With me it is the width of the foot well, not the length. I am having the left side of the foot well box cut out and widened 2-3'. Right now my left foot has to sit on the dimmer switch all the time.

There also has been mention of people interested in moving the battery. Since the pictures of my car were taken, I have removed the hood sides, which made the battery look really bad. I made a new battery holder out of angle iron from an old bed, and bolted it directly to the firewall, as high up as possible, directly above where it originally sat.

I know that MANY of us hope Rick will share some pictures of these projects!

REPLY - From Dennis, car 189

My dimmer is located just under the dash all the way to the left. Makes it simple to push with my hand and have the extra room on the floor board. I also had my brake pedal cut off the arm rotated 90 degrees and re-welded to allow more foot on the pedal. Worked out real nice. I'm '6 '2 and the only issue I have is my head is a little above my windshield...(Dennis replied to my question by saying that the switch appeared to have been under the dash originally)

Some info can be found on the Annex comprehensive A-Z topic index (main page menu item # 1)  "mirrors"

REPLY - From Dennis, car 189

SWAN NECK MIRRORS

I found these on e-bay and is most likely what I will go with. I like the look and they stick up high enough where you can actually 'see' out of them. I found them at Yearwood (note, the "mirrors" page for Yearwood showed up blank, you may have to call them ) for $39.00 so that may save a little more but here is the link and what they look like... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHROME-HOT-ROD-SWAN-NECK-MIRRORS-4-EXTERIOR-MIRRORS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33649QQihZ019QQitemZ290212684667QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Since the eBay listing will likely disappear at some point, here is the picture from the listing.
It was $58 + $10 postage by a vendor named
GOODFELLAS ROD AND CUSTOM - that is a link to his eBay store as of 3/2008

Update: While updating the new "technical section" on the website, I came across this link http://www.glassicannex.org/cartales.htm#12-33 where he added a power booster to his brakes. That may help.

Taillight from car # 771

A large number of people have changed their VW taillights to reproduction Model A lights.

Model A lights produce much poorer rear lighting that the VW lights, but sure look better. I do know that there is a rather large hole that needs to be fiberglassed in when the VW lights are removed, (see THIS - scroll down for pics) and care must be taken to not mount the Model A taillight brackets too high or too low on the fender.

Some Model A parts catalogs that have on-line versions can be found on the LINKS page.

Joel, the builder, said:

.... Up until July of 72 we were using GROTE tail lights, taking them apart and having the shell chromed....After we sold out (When Glassic was under different ownership for a while) I don't know what they could have been using 

As a followup, I asked Joel "Wouldn't it have been easier to use Model A reproduction lights back at that time? He replied: We couldn't use reproduction Model A lights... Didn't meet federal DOT specs, so we did the next bet thing...get close (in appearance) but stay "legal"....

The Annexmaster had never heard of GROTE, but did a Google and look what I found: This page has a 4 inch un-chromed version that maybe a match.

http://www.grote.com/prodcat/C.html  see: 4" Steel, Two-Stud Mount, Combination Lamp

REPLY

Regarding looking for tail lights try Speedwaymotors web site they carry all sorts of stuff. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/m/433_Street-Rod-Taillights-Model-A-T-40-Ford-50-Pontiac.html?page=1

Is there a source for the teardrop shaped front
blinkers? I don't know if the later cars had them. if
there isn't a source, maybe someone would be willing
to have a mold made from theirs so copies can be made?
(I would be willing to do it, but mine are long gone)

use the MESSAGE BOARD FORM to reply

Bill - who removed his said : Mine were cracked (and thrown away) made by: Yankee  NY

Dennis, who had also removed his, suggested that truck running lights make a good, more modern substitute, and look better also. Here is an eBay link to some that he bought - other truck running lights might also work well.
(at some point that link will become out of date) - You can search eBay for any combination of these words:

Amber Cab Roof Truck Semi Clearance Marker Running Lights  

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=110225398257&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=001

2/24/08 -- Stacey responds to the idea of newer truck lights:

I have been looking at truck lights, but I
did like the ones that were on the car. the others
seem too large, and the orange ones don't look right
to me either. I have time, hopefully something will
come up.

On 2/27/08 Dennis sent this picture - his original lights (on the RIGHT) and what he was going to
replace them with (left) until he found a different style

Below are the lights that Dennis ended up with.

And the picture below is the clear type that Stacey is looking for. (This example is from car #320)

 I have a lot of old parts for sale and many more to come.. I am also planning  a Ford AOD transmission setup and changing the rear diff also.. If you need parts or have any input to help me that would be greatly appreciated thanks...

I thought I had done a better job of recording this info. Look at the bottom of the page on car 1106 regarding the AOD trans. swap. I MUST follow up and get this into the index and get better info.    Don

http://www.glassicannex.org/1106/1106.htm

Rich follows up: I am not exactly sure what the problem was for him but here is a guess.. you can not use the flex plate from the original 302 on the 351w engine.. Catastrophic failure will result as it has to be a certain weight to balance the motor properly. In the case of mine it is a 302 stroked to 331 and a 28oz flex plate comes with the motor for use with the AOD trans.. If anyone else has any ideas please let me know. I am still trying to figure out the best way to re-do the a-brake system.. Also thinking out the best way to do the trans shifter.. I may try a electronic push button shifting system.. Any thing else anyone has tried and failed or made work please I really look forward to any input.. Thanks Rich

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A number of hot rod places have battery boxes that can be welded on under the car. The newer Replicars (76 onward) have them on the inside of the passenger side rail, in the rear. This, of course makes for a royal pain to service the battery. You mentioned on the phone that the battery had been moved due to no space under the hood since the car had no riser on the carb for the air cleaner. I may still have mine and can check after the first of the year. If you can get the battery back under the hood, that might be the best way to go.

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Fred eventually sold this car in 1/2009

I was going to attempt to split the hood on car 885 this winter but if I could locate one that someone isn't using  it would save me a lot of trouble and time. I saw the procedure that some one had done on theirs, not too bad but still a lot of work  any info available I would appreciate.    Sid

Yep, the Replicars had split hoods (except for the earliest 1976's) and the Glassics did not. There were a lot of changes with Replicars, so it is not a sure thing that a Replicars hood would fit, even if you COULD find one. Here are my measurements of my 1978 split hood. If a Glassic owner would send me the measurements of THEIR hood, we will all know if they can be swapped.

Measurements are approx. Front 13 1/8" for each half or 26 1/4" plus a little for the hinge. Rear - (windshield end) 21 3/8" each side or 42 3/4" total plus a little for the hinge. Front to back in the center 34 3/8 inches  Front to back at the side, where the latches are 35 1/2"

Dave, car 1279, is in the process of fixing his split hood so that the sides are hinged also and the latches will be at the bottom, on the fenders like a real Model A. Photos will be posted when he is finished.

How neat is THIS? Great find, Ron & Diana. Ho ho ho!

The card company's page with this card on it or you can search their website for "christmas car antique"

The short of it is, I manage to get a "non-modified" automobile policy which was $100.00 cheaper on the year.

Now 6 mos. later they want to change it to "modified" and raise it. Is there a Collector Car Insurance Company that doesn't look at the Glassic as "modified"?

Louis is a former Glassic owner and a friend of the website. Louis is also an Allstate agent. I passed this question on to him, and his reply appears below:

I write through Hagerty and they rated both the Shay and Glassic's as modified which as the person with the question said is more expensive.    I am told that Grundy has the best rate of the collector car companies.     State Farm has also gone through their book and re-rated everything that was not "bone stock" to modified according to a friend of mine.  I suggest he try Grundy and report back to you his finding.    Louis

This appears in keeping with the Annexmaster's feeling that insurance companies have a motto of: "Charge as much as you can, and pay out as little as you can."

Well I installed my new billet grill insert today and it went rather smoothly

     
NOTE: Contact Mike if you are interested in one of these. My 1978 Replicar has a different shape to the shell opening. Be sure to verify your measurements before ordering one. I asked Mike about the shipping weight and cost for one of these - his answer:

As for the weight it is not too bad being made of billet aluminum it weighed around 10 pounds, as for the cost it is around $350.00.  Yes I realize that the later model Glassics have a slightly different size grill shell and I can have it made any dimension that is given to me. Mine measured 17" wide by 17.5" high and I had the mounting tabs welded on 3" from the top and bottom of the grill and it mounted right up to the extension of the radiator perfectly with tinnerman clips on the mounting tabs. I did have to remove the engine sides to remove the grill shell for installation but I have done that before so it wasn't too bad.  If anyone is interested in one I would be more than happy to help them out!

Some info from Joel, the builder appears HERE. Also, a general article on FINDING PARTS

. I also need to know how to repair the driver side door that doesn't fully close. If anyone can help, please let me know. I'd be most appreciative.   -- My own car has a little looseness when the doors are closed, and in THAT case it is because the weatherstripping was not replaced when the car was painted. I never got around to replacing it, but know that, in Florida anyhow, the stick-on type tends to melt and get gooey. When I DO replace it, I will get a universal door weatherseal and some of that black glue from the car store.

Later Cy elaborated on his door problem:
My door problem is the drivers side door and the door doesn't fully close - it just catches on the first latch and is loose and rattles when driving.

I don't know if it applies to your case, Cy, but I recall with my dad's 1955 Chevy that the door latch would sometimes get "out of whack" and the door wouldn't latch. At the time I recall "fiddling" with the latch (the star shaped gear on the door) using pliers to crank in forwards or backwards, until it finally clicked and then was in the right position to latch fully.

 I also remember that it took some doing to get it to work, and when it finally did get into the right position, I never quite knew HOW I had done it. So, try turning that star knob a click forward (or maybe backward) with pliers - with or without pushing the door button on the outside at the same time.  Experiment around.

Also, and I don't know if it has anything to do with the problem, but pulling the inside handle in the opposite direction for opening, causes the outside handle to lock. Not much use for that with no windows.

  THANKS IN ADVANCE.        CY, FROM NEW JERSEY

Tom Scott
Denham Springs, LA 70706

Home Phone: 225-664-5103

Email: lenaandtom@bellsouth.net

I tried long-tube headers on my 78, and surprisingly, they cleared the frame and steering, but hit the transmission housing on the passenger side. The only thing I could figure is that the original Mustang (which was an automatic) may not have had the C-4 transmission. Something to keep in mind. Buying new, with a return policy, may be the way to go.

Also, my buddy (car 1279 and a long-time hot rodder) prefers NOT to use headers because they are noisy and throw a lot of heat under the hood (and into the passenger compartment.)

These are the moldings that go on the running boards and on the rear of the car. there are 4 on each running board that have a channel that rivets on and then the molding snaps into a groove in the channel.

I found a place in San Diego that has what they call a 5/8 inch molding insert and I ordered this since that's what I thought we had but it turns out these people measure the back side of the channel instead of the molding itself.

 If there is anybody that has done a restoration on a Glassic that might know it would be a big help.
 

My gut feeling is that '72 to '74 were easy years to up-size the rear wheels. If it were ME, I would check the photo albums for a look that I liked, jot down the car # and try to contact the owner (from the owners list) for specifics.

Scout parts in a '74? I would have expected Ford parts by then.

My experience with my '78 may help (see index on the website -fuel sending unit). Think simple at first, such as a loose or disconnected wire or gruond. A Bronco sending unit should still be good on this year - I think.

From Frederick, 4/2/07: A few months ago I purchased a 1962 Willys wagon. The hood latches look the same as the ones on my Glassic #600. Just another place to look

Nothing that I know of fits. I have heard of people cutting down 1931 Stainless Steel shells (making them about 4 inches shorter), but have also had reports that the shape of the hood is different from a real Model A shell. Don't throw out your old Glassic shell!--  I hope others have suggestions. A number of people have installed '32 shells, which, I believe, also have to be made shorter and also have issues with the curve of the top matching the hood.

I put 1934 ford handles on car # 218 they fit great I just had to cut the shaft down a little.   Mike

I would look at International Scout handles first, since the early Glassics were closely connected with Internationals.  I looked for handles to match my 1978, by checking pictures of all sorts of '70s Ford products (like on eBay, etc.) and never did find ones that looked like my 78.  Anyone with leads on any year outside door handles, please share your info.

;There is no top or top frame! Does anyone have pics or drawings or dimensions?
If anyone sends this info or pics to GlassicAnnex@aol.com, I will post it on the website. Some people have built non-folding frames from conduit pipe. A tonneau cover is also an interim solution.

The floor shifter is wobbly, is it a Mustang unit and if so what year?

Has any body got info re. seatbelt attachment?

How about a catch or retainer for the rumble seat, I don't want to squash the kids at the first stop!

Are their headers that fit the 302?
More than one person has suggested that headers will add heat to the engine compartment and in the car, as well as noise. Having had a set that bolted up fine but ended up hitting the transmission, the best idea is to buy them were you can return them if they don't clear the frame etc.

Does anybody have details about the hood side panels, mine are missing!?
Unless someone has a pair they don't want, you may have to borrow a set as a pattern and have them made out of sheet metal. Look at pictures on the Annex and notice the "tumor" or bulge for, I guess, the alternator on one side.

Does anybody know what happened to Oscar, the guy who built a top at Asbury Auto Tops ? Thanx  Doug

 From the Annexmaster:  Probably not. Since the records were lost in a flood after the company closed, we likely will never know exactly how many cars were made, let alone what body style. The best we can do is extract from the cars that are registered on the site. We now have 70% Phaetons and 30% Roadsters on the list.  Expanding that to our estimated 1600 or so total cars, we can guess that about 450  were Roadsters and around 1150 were Phaetons. A coupe and a couple of pickup trucks were in there too.

Joel, the builder, had reported that real Model A lightbars did NOT match Glassics. Your measurement should come from an earlier Glassic rather than a Replicar since they may be different.  Also, be sure to test the ANGLE of the attaching mounts as well as the length needed since the fender shapes may be different than a real Model A.

Thanks for the help in advance,

DJ…

He also asks:   Is there a nicer steering wheel that one can buy to replace the existing one that looks like a pinto steering wheel? Something that looks from the 30, 40 era that would replace only the top part.

 I noticed when I was buffing out the car that the black buffed out very easy in comparison to the red. I've also noted that when I sand through the black, there is red underneath. I'm wondering, is it possible that the black is actually paint over red gelcoat?

I cannot comprehend how you would use two colors of gelcoat with such precision on a one piece unit. Does anyone have any idea how they did this, or is this actually paint? When did they go from gelcoat to painting the car?

Reply4/16/06 by Joel, the car builder:

Clint - Just remember that the body is formed in a "mold" that is upside down and inside out when compared to the finished product...  To achieve the two tone effect, the "red" part of the body is taped off and the Black is sprayed into the partially exposed mold... Then the tape & paper is removed and the red is sprayed into the now exposed part of the mold with the overspray covering the black around the edges... SSsoooo if you sand through the black you will hit red....  

Now if you are going to paint over the gelcoat, you MUST use a polyester, catalyzed primer to fill the little cracks (or crazes) or they will transfer through the paint...  It is hard to sand so spray it as smooth as you can... Then work up with lacquer base primer to get ready for the paint....  Paint started in '73 if my memory is right, but lots could have happened to your car in the last 25 years that we don't know about....   Hope this helps.... The Phantom

Some sources for International parts can be found under LINKS, menu item #13 on the Annex website.

 I'd like to find a good set of original wheel covers that Glassic used in 1973. Mine have rusted in recent storage. Maybe some Glassic owners who changed wheels have some that aren't being used. My ammeter has never worked. Don't know why

Added 3/27/06: I also need a passenger side outside mirror.  My bracket got broken. Also need the chrome plated tail light and bracket on driver's side.

Annexmaster note: see his solution to this problem HERE.

  Also, I curious to know if anyone has tried the 28-34 Ford rack and pinion conversion for a straight axle that is offered by Unisteer. The link is https://www.unisteer.com/product.php?productid=16152&cat=250&page=1   I don't know if it will fit my chassis or not. Not certain if the 72 frame and steering dimensions will coincide with the original Model A or not. It would be interesting to find out. (This has been answered already -- no relationship between our Glassic frames and real Model A's)   I've also noted that my steering column is almost touching the valve cover of the 302 in my car on the passenger side. Do you know if this is common either?  BTW, do you have any idea what the steering column and box was off of in 72? (Possible places to start looking - Econoline, Bronco or other Ford product of the era)

Thank you

Larrygross5@comcast.net

I am anxious to hear the answer to this one as my outside handles are pitted. I would suggest looking at pictures of 1975 to 1978 Broncos, Econoline vans, or other Ford products to start with - since that's where many of our Glassic parts came from. -- (It does not look like a Bronco, but a couple of poor pics of Econolines make me want to check THAT idea further.)

2/21/06 -- Words from Joel, the builder of the cars (remember, this is nearly 30 years ago that he built these) "as far as door knobs are concerned, try a Mazda pickup or a little Ford pick-up, vintage '68 through '75 or so....  Who knows... they just might work.... "

Since then I have been looking at pics on the web and not seen a match so far in Ford (its amazing how many people don't feel a need to show close-ups of the door knobs when selling an old Ford. I have found NO pictures of old Mazda truck door handles yet. -- the truck pics that I HAVE seen show handles that are similar but have a round push button, not rectangular like Glassics.

I REPLACED MY GAS TANK WITH A TANK FROM A U.S. POSTAL JEEP. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, YOU MAY CALL 812-275 6023 OUR CAR IS A 1967

their is two nuts holding the rear seat back,you get to them from under the car!

Joel, the builder of the cars back then, reported that there never were any owners manuals made for any year of the Glassics or Replicars. Finding an old Mustang or Maverick manual could help you with engine maintenance issues.

Does this problem occur above 30 MPH or at "idle" like in a parade or waiting for a long train to pass.... If it happens when you "go slow" try a flex fan and 100% antifreeze... If it happens at speed, it is the first I've heard of that being a problem.... Good luck, The Phantom

try a milodon 30% over water pump .

Don't forget -- even at proper temperatures our cars may overflow the radiator when you shut the engine down after a trip. Some owners have added those aluminum recycling tanks to their cars.

Of course, the original Mustangs had overflow tanks, but the Glassics did not. Also, you don't want to fill the old radiators to the top like you do with the new cars.

I have a 1973 Glassic and bought a radiator for a 1966 mustang 3 row and it fit like same that was in it. I got mine on ebay but this site has them www.americanpony.com/store.mv?p=521002

Regards
Tom LaJeunesse
phaeton31@yahoo.com

More on the "heating problem" we discussed some time back... I have since put "real" gauges in my car and I have found that the temp gauge (electric) that read 220+ only reads 180 on a thermometer gauge (Stewart Warner), so I wonder IF there really was a heating problem on the engine???

the heater core can be made up at a radiator shop. The drive train is ford so the u joints could be bought from the dealer or a good parts store. my front end is a f100 ford truck with same brakes and a Fairlaine rearend the front springs are Pinto. I don't know what the rear springs are. I had them re-arced and extra leaf added to both front and rear

the way the fuel tank is located on my 73 there is not a way to increase the capacity it sets between the rear springs and the rear end. I have about three inches clearance

Have you looked into a company called Tanks Inc (320-558-6882) P.O. Box 400 Clearwater MN 55320. I believe they have what they call saddle tanks which fit under running boards or just inside the frame. I have car no. 141 a 4 cylinder and when I looked under that area it looks like they should fit. Hope this helps, (Ezroder ) Chuck S
 

on the Annex website scrapbook (1) page 6 is an example of an add-on tank for more gas.
glassicannex.org/scrapbk1/scrapbk1.htm

I have a '73, #720, mostly like a mustang of the same age with wheel and brake assemblies of an econoline van. Body and frame are custom, unique to Glassic with some Model A parts fitting. I've had engine dressed up with lots of chrome, pretty standard stuff for a 302 v8. Seats and top probably need custom work or trial and error on seat replacements, had mine recovered by a pro. Planning grill upgrade to '32 style and fiberglass refresh along with paint job, same colors. Removed A/C, ride mostly with top down. Most engine parts readily available, even new in crate 302 versions from Ford. Be sure to read tips in A to Z list, Don does a great job on this web site, other owners are quite helpful as well. Good luck.

Bob sounds like you have your work cut out for you but seem to be coming along pretty well with it. Still looking for that grille. New question - I'd like to convert my drum brakes to disc. How can I go about doing this for my 73 Glassic (31 Ford)? How can I make the conversion? Mine is a 1020. Any suggestions appreciated. Mr Ed

Bob, I recently had all 4 of my leaf springs rearched and added Teflon spacers between each leaf. I also used Teflon spacers or washers on all the spring to shackle bolts. When I picked them up the guy at the spring shop said he also replaced one of the bushings in the end. I took it that this is a standard part that all spring shops would have. By the way, the Teflon made a huge difference. No squeaks and no popping when turning the front wheels.

A message from "The Phantom" said:

"Signal Stat" who would have been the manufacturer of the lens... We used Grote lights back then also and they were "bubble clearance lights" or "cab marker lights" rewired for a double filament bulb... Go to a NAPA store and find a sympathetic counterman.... Good luck... The Phantom

All the Scout 800A models used standard issue 2 wheel drive 4 lug wheels. (the only vehicles that did NOT use the 4 lug wheels were the 4 wheel drive models that were built for Abercrombie & Fitch...) I do know of an instance where wider wheels in the rear were necessary, and the problem was solved by saving the 4 lug "centers" and using 15" station wagon rims that were welded to the old centers. Watch the offset so the new wheels don't make the tires stick out beyond the edge of the fenders (the modified wheels were actually widened to the inside rather than to the outside as is commonly done.) Otherwise a few phone calls to the custom wheel manufacturers should turn up any available aftermarket wheels that quite possibly could be available today... Good luck, The Phantom

Edited by: GlassicAnnex at: 5/15/03 6:54:40 am

IF the car has a tube front axle, caster could be the problem IF the tapered shims have been removed from the perch plate...I can't remember the preferred angle of caster but if he uses the suggested alignment for a 2 wheel drive Scout 800A it should rectify the problem... If not add 1 or 2 degrees of caster because with power steering it won't affect the turning and maneuverability of the car at slow speeds... IF the car has the Mustang II front A frame suspension, make sure the caster is set for the Mustang II... Wander at highway speeds is an alignment problem, and I'm assuming that in either case there is about 1/8" toe in in the setup of the front wheels. Camber would cause the car to want to go in one direction or the other, not wander, so I don't think it is a camber problem

My 1978 Phaeton is also very "touchy" at highway speeds. New tie rod ends and an alignment job made it so it stays straight, but I feel like if I gave a small jerk on the wheel I could roll it over.

Tire pressure changes might help some also. Since the cars are light, a tire pressure of 20 psi is not too low.
Also, remember that even at best, our cars are FLAT across the front, which I am sure makes for some unpleasant air movement at 70+ miles per hour.