The story of car #982
In August, 2004 Ray, the new owner of a 1974 Phaeton (car # 982) began to correspond about his new purchase. He clearly has lots experience with hotrods and has set right in to changing and upgrading his car.
Here is Ray with his Glassic and a coupe that he wants to sell.
I will present most of his notes here, and will highlight topics that he has written about. The history of this car, and Ray's purchase experiences can be found in CAR TALES.
Topics to be found below: Radiator shell, lowering the front end, water pump and radiator, polishing the headlight bar and radiator shell, and others.
I carried my Glassic shell into Vintage Ford last Wednesday to see about buying new wings and cap assembly, I laid it on the counter and the guy says, 28-29 model A, then after simply looking at it for a moment or two says, "something is different about this radiator'. Then I told him what it came off of. Plus the day before I took my extra 28 A shell off the wall, carried it out to the Glassic, and also parked my Glassic next to my 31. Then began to measure them both. The 31 was way too narrow, and for sure way too tall. the 28 is almost a dead on fit. I will get you pictures of my friend's Glassic that has the 28 fitted to it, and I am going to look closely as to what they cut to make it fit.
Dairy entry for car # 982. I took the windshield off and sanded and buffed it out last week. Looks just like chrome. I started to buff the wiper motors but thought better knowing it would take hours to get into the small places.
I removed the mirrors for buffing out. I noted that the mirrors were made by Lucas, possible for a MG, Jag or some other English model. I finished installing a new four row radiator. Had to remove the small spacer from behind the fan to move back the fan. The new four row was about 1.5 inches thicker. This four row should never have a problem keeping this thing cool. The radiator was just a straight fit, the basic Mustang radiator. (more on this subject further down - ed.)
Replace the top and bottom radiator hoses, they were for a 69
Mustang, had to cut some off both hoses to shorten them up. The new
water pump was also for a 69 Mustang. While cleaning I noticed the
headlight bar was aluminum, so I took out the steel wool and began to
remove the paint and polished it. Looks like chrome, very pleased with
it. If someone would like to know the tools I use for polishing stainless
and chrome along with the compounds let me know. This week coming will be
refitting the doors, the bottom door hinge pins have a little play
in them. I need to raise the back of the door to keep it from hitting the
body. Should be an easy hour fix. Does anyone know which door hinges
might interchange. They look close to VW.
In answer to a question about radiator fit on a '78 Glassic:
Most of the older 302's had the water exit the pump on the
drivers side. In about mid seventies they changed that. While taking my
pump into the parts store the clerk punched up a 74 pick-up 302 water
pump, he brought it out and the water exit was on drivers side. He then
punched in 69 mustang 302 and the water pump came out being correct. I do
think that each of these will bolt on to any 302 from the 60's to 70's.
Another thing is that when they went to serpentine belts Ford reversed
the direction of the water pump. The water exit is still on the
passenger side and will bolt onto the older motors but if not installed
with the serpertine system they will pump water backwards. (My friend
made that mistake on his 289, he purchased a NOS water pump at the swap
meet and installed it on his 29 roadester he did not know it was the
Followup: RADIATOR SHELLS
Now for last minute up to dates.
Lowering the front end
On Saturday morning I decided to change the front suspension, I
removed the front springs and took out two springs from the original six
springs. I reinstalled the 4 leaf spring on the frame. I also used new u
bolts and two inch lowering blocks and remounted the front axle. I knew
this was going to place the axle too close to the bottom radiator hose
exit. I raised the radiator about two inches and reattached it. I then
raised the motor about 3/4 of an inch by installing steel blocks between
the motor and top of the motor mount. This realigned the fan to keep it
from hitting the bottom of the hose exit. I am thinking about gettng a 13
inch flex fan, It will pull more air and also give me more clearance from
the bottom hose.
I removed the jack stands and lowered the car. This actually lowered
the front bumper about 4 inches. The front of car is now lower that
rear. and the tires fit up under the front fenders very nice. In all
aspects the front tires do not even come close to the fenders.
After all the changes I washed the car and headed to the car show for its
debut in the Sacramento area. The new radials did make the car track much
better than the biased plies. It did make it ride a little rougher
because any little dip would bottom out the front end. If removal of
rubber from stops does not provide enough travel then I am going to
replace the blocks with one inch blocks. Or I could reinstall one
spring. But I am going to opt for the block because I think the 4 springs
are very adequate for this vehicle and it should soften the ride just a
little. I think the 6 leaf springs were way more than was needed
on the original car. 4 springs with some good gas shocks should provide a
very comfortable ride.
"How to convert to one wire
alternator on 74 Glassic"
Last night I removed headlights and turn signals and headlight bar. The lights were also from Lucas, I am going to replace them with king bee headlights from vintique ($55.00 for pair chrome). The new chrome turn signals will be moved to the front of the splash apron almost directly in front of the headlights. The Glassic aluminum headlight bar will be wet sanded with 1000 grit sand paper and then buffed to a high polish. I also got out the buffer for the radiator shell. I was afraid that the plastic shell may not take to buffing very well. I was wrong, I used a cotton buffing wheel and liquid chrome polish. (note: if it had been steel chrome I would have first used a polishing compound, then went with final polish but did not want to allow the compound to possibly scratch the shell). The shell came up to a very satisfactory shine, much better than I had hoped for.
While doing the hood disassembly I noticed the metal finish
washers they use were eating into the fiberglass side panels some. I
went to home depot and purchase new zinc plated #8 finish washers (just
like the original used by Glassic) I then went to the plumbing section
and got some 1/4 inch faucet washers (rubber), this faucet washer
was the exact same size as the finish washer. These faucet washers will
be placed between the new finish washers and the fiberglass, this will
prevent further damage to the side hood panel. I will also use these same
faucet washers on the inside next to the body along with a flat washer.
The inside flat washer will spread the pressure our over more area that
just the small washer. I will use a nylon lock nut so the system will not