Fuse panel

This info was posted in Jan. 2013 as I began snooping around in car 689, a 1973 Phaeton. Here are some observations. The panel is well hidden on the driver's side of the steering column, up high under the dash, all the way back where the firewall is. I had to move some wires out of the way to expose the panel.  Reaching the fuses is difficult, and there are "fuse pullers" available at car parts stores to help with this.

My car may NOT be original in its wiring.  As I recall from a previous visit under the dash, the power comes FROM the right side of the fuses and out the left.  None of the 5 fuses showed power with the key in the OFF position. The brake lights, etc. did not work until the key was in the on position.

The HORN, however, worked with the key off, suggesting that there is either another fuse, or the horn is un-fused. Something that needs to be resolved soon.  The horn on MY 1973 seems to have a switch to the right side of the steering column, under the dash.  This is a two-way switch and may have been installed (per Joel) who is Joel? at a time when some states did not consider the aoogah horn as a "horn" so a real horn was also installed. On my car one way the aoogah works, the other way, nothing. I have yet to follow the OTHER wire to see where it goes. I expect to find it capped off under the hood somewhere.

Fuse # 1 20amp - Headlights, tail lights, parking lights. it did not have power with the key in the ON position, but did have power once the HEADLIGHT switch was pulled to parking lights and/or headlights.

Fuse # 2 AGC 30 Hazard lights

Fuse # 3 AGC 30 powered the gauges  when in the ON position - Turn signals were on this fuse but only worked when engine was running.

Fuse # 4 Hard to read, but seemed to be AGC 30  Brake lights

Fuse # 5 AGC 30 Heater fan. (Mustang and Maverick shown as using 14 amp for their heater--which is different than a Glassic heater)

Note: all my fuses had some corrosion at the ends. If you remove yours, they could be sanded a bit, and if you have any of that electrical grease, a coating on the ends would improve the contact surfaces. 

A Maverick electrical page for 1973 shows Hazards as 20A -- in fact, it did not show ANY 30 amp fuses.  I think someone got a bargain on a box of same-size fuses, which should protect from a dead short, but not from ruining the item being protected.  I did not pursue the horn issue at this time.