Technical -- Body


Door hinges loose

44-06 Door hinge pins loose. Door fit sloppy, doors sag.

This problem has come up a few times over the years -  without a good solution being reported.
In 2018 the following info was posted on the message board by Tom Downs,  Glassic Roadster # 1069 (a 1974)

 Trying to align my doors and the hinge pins are loose and the doors are a sloppy fit. Has anyone found oversized pins? Does anyone have a solution?

After no response here (on the message board) I started my internet search and finally was able to find a solution. It appears the door hinges on my roadster #1069 are early Bronco, 1966-77. My hinges were .290 on the ID and pins were .277 OD. This made my doors really loose and impossible to align to the body.

I found oversize hinge pins .312 diameter that are for a 1932-48 Ford. Part number 173248-709 from Custom Classics and Rods in Elk River, MN. and purchased a 5/16 reamer (.312) from Amazon.

I also found an early bronco door hinge shim kit at Tom's Bronco Parts part number 1120K 

To resize your hinges to accept the .312 pins you must remove the hinges from the body and the doors. With the old pins in place hold both the door and door post halves of the hinge as a set in a vise and then remove the pin. Clamp the hinges at the fat-round edge so the halves will not move when the pin comes out. Do not clamp them further down on the flat part of the hinges. First drill with a 19/64 (.296) drill, then ream with the 5/16 reamer, or with a 5/16" drill if you opt to go that way instead of reaming. You should now be able to align your doors using either existing shims or the new ones listed above.




Top pins

46-03 Top pins

These are the pins that hold the top to the stanchions of the windshield posts.  They hold the top in the up position.

If a replacement can't be found, you can tap the holes and put in thumb screws as an alternative. Has anyone found these?

Aug, 2008 Michael responded:

I found replacement pins at West Marine (Lincoln Park if you near Chicago). I imagine other boating supply stores would also carry them and would be a good place to search.



Securing the top to the windshield

In Feb. 2009, John, car 1254 wrote:
Anyway the reason I am witting you is that the last time we met you  mentioned that you never trusted the top and were always afraid it might blow off at high speed.  Well you scared me and I went to work.  I will attach pictures of what I did to cure the problem so you may want to include them in your next top project.  I used flat aluminum stock from Ace hardware and just bent in a vice and drilled and --  boom they where installed and are hardly noticeable. 

Annexmaster note: I didn't recall mentioning that fear - I had been referring to the connectors that I had made for the back of the fiberglass top that I had built --

But, since he mentioned it, the FRONT of all Glassic tops is secured only by those two little pokey rods (one of which had broken off of car 1254 before I owned it, and had to be repaired) so his solution to strengthen that font windshield post security is well based - whether on a fiberglass top replacement, or the original soft top.

Sorry about the focus on these -- this bracket adds a secondary connector from the windshield stanchion to the block holding the top on. It uses existing holes and hardware. The aluminum is 1/8" x 1" bar stock.


Where the original top frames came from:

In late 2009, in response to a question by an owner, Joel provided the following info:

The top frames were built by a little two man outfit which is out of business and both men have since passed on...

The owner was hoping to find the original plans for the top frames. The top frames of Glassics were designed especially for Glassics and hired out to be custom built. Model A top frames don't fit Glassics.


Cleaning materials, metal polishes restoration suggestions
Whitewall cleaner, plastic window cleaner etc.


Car 1254, The new owner, John shared the following WHEEL CLEANER in Dec. 2008:

If you ever need to clean up old metal wheels, I found that using a product called Mothers Powerball  Medal Polish System is the best.  It is a cloth ball that goes into a power drill and polishes as it cleans. 


Car  # 341 in July, 2008 shared the following metal polish:

Those gauges (Old International Scout gauge cluster from a junkyard) cleaned up fantastic. they look new other than the fact that we had to pry them open to clean 40 yrs of crud off the inside of the glass. Not fun. If someone needs metal polishing stuff I strongly recommend Eagle One Nevr-dull Wadding Polish. It took off rust and shined it up great. I found my can sitting in my dad's garage and gave it a shot. I think it's available at Fleet Farm. I'm impressed with how it turned out.


Car 1254, the Annexmaster discovered the following  whitewall tire cleaner in 2007.

A guy saw my car on the street and said he cleaned cars for a dealer. He recommended Bleche-White as a whitewall cleaner. He said it could be found in most stores and comes in a flat plastic bottle like liquid Turtle Wax comes in. I think I got it in Walmart, or a grocery store. It is a white bottle, kind of old fashioned looking in the label style.

This stuff is STRONG and you should read all the cautions. It eat the grime right off the whitewalls on my car - and no rubbing was necessary. Worked great, but be careful, the stuff is like acid.


Car  # 885 in Oct., 2008 shared the following tip for cleaning plastic windows:

I read on the message board some questions about cleaning the top and windows without scratching.  I have a new top and interior on my roadster #885 and was advised by my upholsterer to use Lemon Pledge to my amazement it works great.











Group 41 Seats

41-14 Rear seats

Info supplied in 3/2008 by Joel, the builder of the cars.

The back Phaeton seat had two 1/4 - 20 studs welded on that stuck through holes in the back of the tub...Take the nuts off and the seat removes toward the front of the car...




Rubber trim around windshield
In January, 2012, I got a copy of an answer to another owner's question on the Message Board. First, thanks to Chuck for copying me so I could post these pics, and second, here is his info:

Here are some pics hope this helps. The first pic shows how the strip kind of overlaps the body. The second pic shows the strip with the windshield pushed forward. The strip is slid through the middle of the frame. The next ... pics show what the strip looks like from the end view. I will try to locate the bill for the strip so I can tell you where I bought it.

Annexmaster note: As far as I know, this trim fits all years of Glassics and is available from Model A catalog places. The LINKS page on the Annex has some of them.  When working on my 1978 years ago, I remember that I could only find it in black and it was very hard to slide in. I think I ended up greasing (or vaseline) the trim so it would slide - and still had to tug with pliers.

Also, installing it stretches it, so you should let it sit for quite a while before trimming it, since it will shrink back.






Group 44 - Doors, hood, trunk and tailgate

Hood hold-down latches and straps

(scroll down for an item on removing the hood latches
for a cleaner look)

In Feb. 2009, Dennis, car 189 shared the following: (pictures below)

I installed these so I could put the hood on and run straps from the hood to the hold downs.  They are SS (stainless steel) with all SS hardware.  I paid under $15 for the entire setup and purchased from Boaters World.  If anyone is interested Ill send the part number of the hold downs.  The current straps are just to get an idea of what it will look like after Im finished.  The ones Ill get (or make) will be a buckle type so no chance of slipping.

Boat superstores appear to the Annexmaster to be a great place to shop for ideas for Glassics. Their wide array of weatherproof plastic, stainless and aluminum products are great. Find a large boating supply store in your yellow pages and see what they have. If you know your prices for stainless, nuts, bolts, fittings, screws, etc. you may well find them cheaper than the hardware Home stores.

Dennis, and many others like to run their cars without the side panels in place, but with the hood on. I also saw some hot rod spring loaded things like barrel bolts that were made for hot rod hoods and fit up under the hood, and sent a bolt like rod into the front radiator shell area and into the cowl. The bolts are horizontal. 

I never did find those in a hot rod catalog, but something made me think they were very expensive.

Boat supply stores have all kinds of stainless goodies that may be of interest to Glassic owners.


Removing the hood latches for cleaner lines
October, 2010, Steve, car 699 reported:

Heres how I attached the hood without using the old hood latches. I hope this will help someone if they want a different look. Without a great expense, I think the total cost was less than $15.00 dollars and it looks good.


1.       Removed all old chrome latches and bolts from hood

2.       Filled all holes using black nylon hole plugs from hardware section at Lowes.

Used on furniture & Cabinets (come 4-to a pack)

3.       Drilled (4) holes (1) on each corner of the hood with the hood mounted on the car in place

Note: Drill all way thru the body in back where the hood meets the cowl and all way thru the radiator frame in the front. Note: I added a extra steel bracket to radiator frame one on each side inside the radiator frame for added strength and drilled hole thru bracket for the Nylon Rivet to go thru when you pushed  the Nylon Rivet thru (Hood-Radiator Frame-Drilled Bracket)

4.       Used 1/4 Nylon Rivets 2 long Part # 961-065 Dorman part from Auto Zone

5.       Installed Nylon Rivets in pre-drilled holes & Tighten all Nylon Rivets to secure

the hood to the car

6.       Reverse procedure to remove hood takes less than 5/minutes. to remove hood.

7.       Have tested car at 70 MPH on interstate with  no problems with hood coming loose

what so ever. Note: I carry extra Nylon Rivets in my tool box in case one would break.

See pics of car 699 for Hood.



Group 45 Interior trim

45-55 Interior Accessories

Owners manual. No owners manual or instruction booklet was ever produced for either the Glassics or Replicars. Some cars may have come with some Ford booklets for some of the components in the cars.


Reference pics for a grill shell - Replicars era
Earlier Glassic shells are similar in appearance and shape.

Some reference photos with measurements. These shells were plastic and subject to warping and bending. These pictures were added in 2012 from the Annexmaster's parts bin.  The holes in the top (not seen in these pics) show where the hinge rod was bolted on.  The older Glassics had a single piece hood, while the Replicars had the split hood.

Total overall height 27 inches. Measured with the shell upright on the floor, and a mark on the wall at the highest spot.

Line A measures  18 inches-- not the opening, but the opening and the lip on each side  Line B is 21 inches -- the overall width  Line C is 26 3/4 inches.   The shell opining itself (the part of the mesh you would see) is 15 3/8 to 15 1/2 inches across and ABOUT 19 to 19 1/2 inches high depending on where you measure  Along line C, in the middle, the opeining itself is 19 inches.

The cut across notch is 4 inches deep where you would see the shell with the hood sides on, and another inch where it is indented to be covered by the hood sides.   The very bottom of the front lower curve drops to about 4 3/8 inches below the flat cuts on each side.



Plastic, chrome plated -- not immune from pitting and corrosion. This shell looks like old galvanized steel and its smoothness can't be restored that I know of.




 Replacing the heater core with a newer part                            

in Dec. 2012, the owner of car 1500 sent the info below.  This may also work on earlier Glassics, but you should check measurements first.

Due to the cost of repairing or re-coring my original leaking heater core I looked for a replacement. I was not able to find an exact replacement, but was able to find a core very close to the original from Advance auto part # 338336 for a 1999 Ford Tarsus.
H 7 1/8"
w 7 3/4"
2" thick
This core is a very close fit, but is 1/2" thinner than the original and about 1/4" too long to use fully attach the front cover at the top of the heater box (see attachment heater side view). I was able to use the bottom screw holes on each side, but had to add a tab of metal about 3/4"X 1 1/2" on each side to let the top of the front cover move out about 1/4" to compensate for the longer core. In the pics the the 1/2" shims can be seen to compensate for the thinner new core. Also two holes need to be cut in the back of the heater box for the water tubes.

The core fits tightly in the box and I am very happy to find a good fit,






Horn selection switch car 689 (a 1973 Phaeton)

Posted in 2013.  Years ago, when talking with Joel, he said that, at some point, he was required to put in TWO horns, since one or more state laws did not consider an aoogah horn as a real horn, so the cars needed a "beep" horn.  My car has an aoogah horn, but I found a switch under the dash that I believe is original to the car, and here is what I learned.

Does YOUR car have this switch? If so, where is the alternate horn.  Include your VIN when you let me know.

This switch is an A-B type switch. The power goes up the steering column to the horn button, then back down and into the center terminal on this switch.

Flip the switch to the right, and the power (with the steering wheel horn button pushed) goes in the center terminal and out the left terminal and to the horn
flip the switch left and the power goes in the center and out the right terminal.

One way powers the aoogah horn and the other is for the alternate horn.

Looking at the firewall, you can see that the marked connection is for the alternate horn, which in my car appears to be gone. The wire has
been clipped off, and I don't know where the other end is, nor do I see the "other" horn. I did not test for the wire that goes to the aoogah

2013 - the owner of Roadster # 881 reported having the switch under his dash and that the "other" horn was a two-horn setup
located in the front-center on top of the engine, attached to the intake manifold - located right behind the distributor.

Speaking of horns, I have noticed that several aoogah horns of mine (car 1254, 689, and a yard sale horn, and a longer unknown chrome trumpet I got at
a car flea market) -- all these parts seem interchangeable and seem to fit with Model A reproduction parts. Gaskets, trumpets, and the noise plate
and adjusting screw seem to be interchangeable and fit one another.


Cruise control reported on a few cars.

By 2018, only a few cars have been reported to the Annex to have cruise control. One car that was sold was said to have had hand controls installed,. That was Replicar #1263 The seller also said that #1263 had a 6 cyl engine - very likely NOT original to the car. 

Also Car 899, a 1973, as well as # 1160, a 1978 Replicar and #1402 a 1979 Replicar. 

It is unknown if any of these were original to the car when it was built or were added later on. Regardless, the technology back then was newer, so use that feature with great caution.